Gunthorpe, 27°C: it doesn’t get much better (in Notts, at least). This popular beauty spot along the banks of the Trent lies within that scenic rural stretch around Burton Joyce, Lowdham and Southwell. And now that some proper sunshine has arrived, half of Nottinghamshire seems to descend upon these shores for a stroll past the lock and weir (although we wondered how many realised that Queen Boadicea apparently defeated the Roman Tenth Legion here in the 1st Century AD?).
Today, the only rivalry taking place here is between the fortunate half-dozen or so pubs and restaurants that boast river views including: The Unicorn where local bikers hang out over bitter and chip cobs, the Toll House (currently up for sale) and the former Anchor Inn where an interesting new Italian place called Pontefino remains under wraps. But still ruling the (albeit gentle) waves is Tom Browns Brassiere, a well-established restaurant with a clutch of plaudits – from Nottingham Restaurant Award gongs to AA rosettes and Egon Ronay gastropub status.
Unsurprisingly (given its name), Tom Browns is a converted Victorian schoolhouse with wooden floors, exposed brickwork and numerous dining rooms filled with nooks and crannies – catering to well over 100 covers. Alongside the ubiquitous white tablecloths and black leather seating, there are some nice individual touches – from the cheeky seaside postcard near the loos to the poignant photos of the former school.
Despite the stylish setting, Tom Browns is also renowned for value. It’s pricing has always been competitive – especially its legendary Early Bird special, which runs right up until 9.45pm on a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. We wanted to visit before sunset anyway (otherwise, what’s the point of driving out to the sticks?) – so it was a no-brainer at £15.95 for three course (£13.95 for two).
For a set-price deal, the choice is fairly good – around a dozen starter and main choices altogether, and a few dessert options on the Modern British-influenced menu (fairly predictable without anything especially outré).
We kicked off with carrot and coriander soup, and tomato and mozzarella salad. Both were competent efforts by the kitchen: the earthy flavours of the home-made soup were enriched by a splash of cumin oil, while the buffalo mozzarella was as clean and fresh as you’d expect.
Next up were our mains of ‘posh fish and chips’ (£2 surcharge on the Early Bird prices) and vegetarian croquettes. My fish and chips were a cut above your average chippy fare: a duo of crispy monkfish tails, lovingly battered, and accompanied by a cleverly constructed stack of potato ‘planks’ (the chunky chips so favoured by modern gastropubs). All complemented by some tangy tartar sauce and, best of all, minted fresh pea puree that paid due respect to that Notts culinary invention – mushy peas and mint sauce.
Meanwhile, my friend was equally pleased by the savoury delights of her potato and stilton croquettes – a satisfyingly wholesome bite, offset by a summery fennel and herb salad, with added spice provided by mustard mayonnaise.
We also ordered a side order of seasonal vegetables (£2.50) – a well-matched blend of tasty broccoli, carrots and cabbage.
Not everything was pure sailing Trentside, though. One of our puddings was a major let-down. I’d expected the artic roll to improve on the original 70s favourite – but, on this evidence, this was a retro dish best left in the past. The ice cream sponge was duller than a Showaddywaddy B-side – and the apple filling and sultana puree were little consolation. Should have gone for the crème brulee… Mind you, no complaints from my companion on her raspberry ripple ice cream.
It also has to be said that service was a touch erratic and pedestrian at times, perhaps due to the sheer number of covers on a sunny afternoon. Nevertheless, overall, this is a confident, well-oiled operation serving quality food.
And, with our final bill coming in at just over £50, including wine, it’s no wonder Tom Browns remains so popular, especially in the sunshine. Let the good times roll… David Sandhu
Three-course meal for two with wine: £55 (Early Bird)-£80 (A la carte)
Tom Browns, The Old School House, Riverside, Gunthorpe. Tel: 0115 966 3642 or visit www.tombrowns.co.uk. Open 7 days a week, serving food 12-2.30pm & 6-10pm.