Tag: #Nottsrestaurants

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CAUNTON BECK

It’s a tough job – but someone has to do it. The editors of the Good Pub Guide are constantly hunting for Britain’s best pubs (aren’t we all?), so every one featured must have exceptional food, drink and atmosphere.

When the 2009 edition landed on our desks last week, we immediately flicked to see who’d made it from the great East Midlands: most intriguingly, the Caunton Beck, Notts. Intriguing because this unassuming gastro-pub (part of a small group with the Wig & Mitre in Lincoln and Bottle & Glass in Harby, Notts) is renowned both locally and nationally for its food but flies under the radar when it comes to PR and all that malarkey.

Caunton is a small village near Newark. It’s not far from the A1 – so guidebook-reading foodies from across the country head here for the a la carte menu (which changes every few months) that’s served from noon every day.

The restaurant certainly looks impressive as you arrive. There’s an affluent feel to the place (and it’s not just the flash motors in the car-park). The building is actually relatively new – reconstructed using original timbers on the site of the former Hole Arms in 1997.

We resisted pre-meal pints (Batemans Valiant, Marstons Pedigree and Tom Woods Farmers Blonde are on draft) and were led straight into the less-populated restaurant area. The décor here felt a bit tired – the country-kitchen combination of rag-finished yellowish walls, wooden benches with pink cushions and a hotch-potch of pictures (what were those military coats- of-arms all about?) could use a revamp. Nevertheless, the subdued lighting and open fire creates a relaxing ambiance. It’s almost too relaxing – with few punters on a Tuesday night and no background music, the atmosphere was morgue-like.

Of course, the menu is the star attraction and it sparkles with possibilities: from starters of confit of belly pork with a parsnip and mustard seed puree (£6.95) and carpaccio of beef with pickled celeriac (£7.95) to mains of British beef and Irish stout pie (£12.50) and seared salmon fillet with shredded crispy beetroot (£13.50). Actually, there must have been a good catch of salmon recently as it seemed to dominate the menu.

The specials board is an important part of the offering here, too. It contained almost as many options as the menu itself – so we spent ages flip-flopping between the two.

A nice gourmet touch on the menu is the sommelier-style matching of the food with specific wines. So I happily accompanied my haddock and leek soufflé starter (£7.50) with their recommendation – an oaky 2007 Chilean Chardonnay Biplano (a pricey £5.55 for a 175ml glass), while my friend chose Pinot Grigio (better value at £3.75) with her Thai fish cakes.

Both opening dishes were superb. The smoked haddock chunks and fresh leek were baked within a creamily, fluffy soufflé to create a fulfilling dish of real class. Meanwhile, my friend’s two fish cakes were light and crispy with flakes of salmon subtly infused with Thai spices and enlivened by sweet chilli and ginger jelly.

For our mains, I opted for the specials board and the chicken breast and risotto (£12.50) while my friend stuck to the main menu and the vegetarian tartlet (£12.50). Both main courses were greened up with some fresh veg.

My dish differed considerably from the red wine risotto promised – it arrived with pancetta within the grainy risotto (good job I liked pancetta then). However, the additional meat made this already salty dish rather rich. The chicken was expertly cooked but the overall savouriness was almost overwhelming – especially with a melted Colston Bassett stilton topping.

Blue cheese (a Blue vinny) was also making a tasty impact on my friend’s tart – the large portion of tomato and thyme tart also included a sprinkling of rocket leaves. Again, it was delicious – but rather heavy on the flavours.

Finally, we only had ourselves to blame for ending this indulgent meal with a shared duo of decadent desserts. There were lots of other interesting options including a few we didn’t even understand – candied orange and rosemary cassonades (£4.95) or baked damson and sloe gin posset (£4.95) anyone? – so we played it straight with the walnut chocolate brownie (£4.95) and a chocolate torte (£4.95). Alongside an espresso (£2.25) and a liqueur coffee with brandy (£5.50), we compared notes on our chocolate puds – the generous slice of bitter dark chocolate torte just about stole the show, especially with an orange marmalade topping giving it a tangy edge. Meanwhile, we doubted whether the brownie really needed some maple syrup. Too much is never enough for this kitchen, it seems.

Caunton Beck is one of those slightly smug country retreats that knows its cooking is a cut-above – and those countless guidebook recommendations prove it. Occasionally, though, it seems too showy – for instance, the wine list cover advertises Krug for £24.95 a glass (£139.50 a bottle).

The Good Pub Guide also waxes lyrical about the ‘warmly welcoming service at this lovely inn’. But we found the atmosphere rather chilly at times. Our waitress even seemed slightly annoyed when we requested a corner table (set for four) – despite the virtually deserted dining room.

This is certainly one of our region’s finest gastro-pubs. But our eternal quest to find the perfect boozer (thankfully) continues… David Sandhu

The Caunton Beck, Caunton, Newark. Tel: 01636 636 793. Open for food daily 11.45am-10pm.

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TOM BROWN’S

Gunthorpe, 27°C: it doesn’t get much better (in Notts, at least). This popular beauty spot along the banks of the Trent lies within that scenic rural stretch around Burton Joyce, Lowdham and Southwell. And now that some proper sunshine has arrived, half of Nottinghamshire seems to descend upon these shores for a stroll past the lock and weir (although we wondered how many realised that Queen Boadicea apparently defeated the Roman Tenth Legion here in the 1st Century AD?).

Today, the only rivalry taking place here is between the fortunate half-dozen or so pubs and restaurants that boast river views including: The Unicorn where local bikers hang out over bitter and chip cobs, the Toll House (currently up for sale) and the former Anchor Inn where an interesting new Italian place called Pontefino remains under wraps. But still ruling the (albeit gentle) waves is Tom Browns Brassiere, a well-established restaurant with a clutch of plaudits – from Nottingham Restaurant Award gongs to AA rosettes and Egon Ronay gastropub status.

Unsurprisingly (given its name), Tom Browns is a converted Victorian schoolhouse with wooden floors, exposed brickwork and numerous dining rooms filled with nooks and crannies – catering to well over 100 covers. Alongside the ubiquitous white tablecloths and black leather seating, there are some nice individual touches – from the cheeky seaside postcard near the loos to the poignant photos of the former school.

Despite the stylish setting, Tom Browns is also renowned for value. It’s pricing has always been competitive – especially its legendary Early Bird special, which runs right up until 9.45pm on a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. We wanted to visit before sunset anyway (otherwise, what’s the point of driving out to the sticks?) – so it was a no-brainer at £15.95 for three course (£13.95 for two).

For a set-price deal, the choice is fairly good – around a dozen starter and main choices altogether, and a few dessert options on the Modern British-influenced menu (fairly predictable without anything especially outré).

We kicked off with carrot and coriander soup, and tomato and mozzarella salad. Both were competent efforts by the kitchen: the earthy flavours of the home-made soup were enriched by a splash of cumin oil, while the buffalo mozzarella was as clean and fresh as you’d expect.

Next up were our mains of ‘posh fish and chips’ (£2 surcharge on the Early Bird prices) and vegetarian croquettes. My fish and chips were a cut above your average chippy fare: a duo of crispy monkfish tails, lovingly battered, and accompanied by a cleverly constructed stack of potato ‘planks’ (the chunky chips so favoured by modern gastropubs). All complemented by some tangy tartar sauce and, best of all, minted fresh pea puree that paid due respect to that Notts culinary invention – mushy peas and mint sauce.

Meanwhile, my friend was equally pleased by the savoury delights of her potato and stilton croquettes – a satisfyingly wholesome bite, offset by a summery fennel and herb salad, with added spice provided by mustard mayonnaise.

We also ordered a side order of seasonal vegetables (£2.50) – a well-matched blend of tasty broccoli, carrots and cabbage.

Not everything was pure sailing Trentside, though. One of our puddings was a major let-down. I’d expected the artic roll to improve on the original 70s favourite – but, on this evidence, this was a retro dish best left in the past. The ice cream sponge was duller than a Showaddywaddy B-side – and the apple filling and sultana puree were little consolation. Should have gone for the crème brulee… Mind you, no complaints from my companion on her raspberry ripple ice cream.

It also has to be said that service was a touch erratic and pedestrian at times, perhaps due to the sheer number of covers on a sunny afternoon. Nevertheless, overall, this is a confident, well-oiled operation serving quality food.

And, with our final bill coming in at just over £50, including wine, it’s no wonder Tom Browns remains so popular, especially in the sunshine. Let the good times roll… David Sandhu

Three-course meal for two with wine: £55 (Early Bird)-£80 (A la carte)

Tom Browns, The Old School House, Riverside, Gunthorpe. Tel: 0115 966 3642 or visit www.tombrowns.co.uk. Open 7 days a week, serving food 12-2.30pm & 6-10pm.

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FARNDON BOATHOUSE

Despite having the Trent on our doorsteps there still aren’t that many decent places for a stylish summer meal by the river. An honourable exception is Tom Brown’s Brassiere in Gunthorpe where you spot water-skiers while sipping your chilled Chardonnay. So we were intrigued to hear about the opening of Farndon Boathouse last month which is apparently part-owned by one of the backers of Tom Brown’s.

Formerly known as The New Ferry Restaurant, the building has undergone a major redevelopment and refurbishment programme using many natural materials, clad in wood, with warehouse-style lighting exposing chunky exposed roof trusses, stone floors and large windows ensuring great river views. We particularly liked the moody black and white boat-related prints throughout the dining room. Overall, it’s an impressively slick operation with smartly uniformed staff patrolling the spacious bar and two dining spaces. And, when the weather holds, there’s a modern outdoor terrace with raised decking.

We certainly weren’t the first to hear the buzz on this place – it was packed on our weekend visit, despite only being open less than a fortnight. The punters are flocking here for a solid menu of mainly modern British staples. Typical starters are warm Lincolnshire poacher and three onion tart with tomato relish (£4.50) and king prawn cocktail (£7), while mains include belly pork, bubble ‘n’ squeak, brown sauce and apple chutney (£11); sausages, creamed potato puree, red wine & shallot jus with crispy onions (£9) and beer battered fish, fat chips, marrowfat peas and tartar sauce (£10).

After kicking off with some fresh baked bread which came with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and oven roasted whole garlic (£2), my friend opted for one of the few veggie choices on the main menu: a puff pastry gallette (£8.50). She should have asked what it was because it turned out, rather disappointingly, to be akin to a squashed vol-a-vent. Even the accompanying mozzarella, basil, vine tomatoes and olives couldn’t quite rescue it. Plus she needed a couple of side orders – seasonal vegetables (£2) and new potatoes (£2) – to beef it up.

Talking of which, I knew exactly what I expected from the Boat House gourmet burger – for £11, you want the full monty. Fortunately, I wasn’t disappointed by the home-cooked rump steak mince blended into a fearsome burger with barn bacon (locally sourced from ‘over the road at Hardys farm shop’, according to the menu) plus exquisite mature Long Clawson stilton, in a toasted focaccia bun. Add in the subtle bitterness of a rocket and chard salad, a super tangy tomato and chipotle relish, and skinny chips that had been triple fried to make them extra addictive. All in all, a calorific feast. This meaty masterpiece reminded us that gourmet burgers are sometimes hard to come by in Notts. Sure, you can always head for the reliably excellent Delilah deli, but both Ultimate Burger and Rare sadly closed within a year a while back.

On the subject of quality meat, this place also seems rather proud of its sausages. According to the website, Head Chef Dan Garner will be getting together with the renowned Nottingham butchers J.T. Beedhams to try and invent ‘a new sausage exclusive to the Boathouse’. Nice one, lads!

Finally, both of our dessert choices excelled. My lemon tart (£4.50) was a slice of zestful heaven, especially when teamed with the innovative home-grown rosemary sorbet. Meanwhile, my friend felt redeemed by the warm Bramley apple and rhubarb pie (£4.50) which oozed with rich flavours from the thickly-cut chunks of fresh fruit and sweetened by the generous scoop of creamy vanilla pod ice cream.

It was a good way to end a decent, though not inexpensive, meal. And although describing Farndon, a few miles from Newark, as a ‘beauty spot’ might be a slight exaggeration, this is a pleasant enough place to be on a sunny-ish evening. There are also some nature walks around here if you want to go all Bill Oddie. And sailing types should be aware that the Farndon Boathouse has its own moorings for three boats (overnight mooring is free to diners – just call to book ahead). Actually, the nearby Farndon Marina is surprisingly impressive with dozens of boats on a tranquil 25-acre site.

So, while Gunthorpe may well be a prettier stretch of the Trent, Farndon Boathouse clearly has the potential to give Tom Brown’s a run for its money. Most promisingly of all, the Boathouse is currently running ‘Sunday Sessions’ of DJs and acoustic music as the sun sets over the river. From 6pm to 8.30pm, there’s a DJ doing his best Jose Padilla impression with some chilled-out ambient vibes, then there’s live acoustic music from local bands: (17th Aug – Urban 2) or  (24th Aug – The Herb Birds). Hey, it may not be quite the Café Del Mar but they’ve got the right idea. David Sandhu

 
The Riverside, Farndon, Newark, Mon to Fri noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 9.30pm, Sat to Sun noon to 3pm and 6pm to 9.30pm. Tel: 01636 676578 www.farndonboathouse.co.uk

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LORD NELSON

***** (Five stars)

Fancy a night out in Burton Joyce? Not a phrase you hear everyday, is it? After all, this pleasant residential area to the east of Nottingham is neither a suburb or a village – it’s a something in-between. And, if you think it sounds dull, that’s your prerogative.

But the good news is that NG14 now has a gastro pub to rival the best in Notts. Tucked off the main road near the church and railway line, the former Famous Lord Nelson pub was, until last summer, an inconspicuous place – with Mild on tap and meals served in a quaint olde worlde lounge bar.

Now the newly rebranded Lord Nelson is a smart country boozer with a nod to urban sophistication. And while we could have lived without Sky Sports blasting from the large screens, overall first impressions were that the new owners have done a professional job. So we weren’t surprised to learn that the Moleface Pub Company, the team behind the refurbished Larwood & Voce at Trent Bridge, is behind this new venture. Last summer, we admired the hearty fare (particularly steaks) at L&V – although we were less convinced by its interiors and disappointed by the lack of cricket memorabilia, given its heritage.

So have they gone one better here? By installing the Notts Young Chef of the Year Nichola Thompson (recognised for her talent at June’s Nottingham Restaurant Awards) as their head chef, it’s certainly a promising start.

As we entered the moderately crowded pub on a Saturday night, the ‘maturity’ of the punters was noticeable. The silver surfers were certainly out in force – perhaps they’re the only ones who can afford (or think they can afford) a decent meal out these days?

After initially being given ‘the duff table’ (you know the one – perched awkwardly near the fire exit with no room for anyone to get past), a kindly waitress took pity and moved us to a far more comfortable booth.

As we sipped on nicely chilled ‘Head over Heels’ rosé (£5.35 for a large glass), we considered the no-nonsense menu of Modern British-dominated pub grub with an old-school slant. From starters of local pigeon on toast (£6) and seriously retro ‘half pint o’ prawn cocktail’ (£5.50) to mains of grilled sirloin and chips in dripping and horseradish (£19.95) and pork belly with baked red onion and apple sauce (£12.50), it was great to see that many main ingredients, especially the meat, were sourced locally with their provenance listed on the menu.

We kicked off with the seafood ‘thermidor’ (£7.50) and mozzarella and tomato salad (£5.50) – both of which were excellent. My friend loved the garlicky creaminess of her thermidor-inspired dish of king scallops and prawns with spinach. Meanwhile, my mozzarella was the real deal: the proper Buffalo variety so loved by Jamie Olivier types, with fresh yellow vine tomatoes – the taste and texture of the melt in the mouth cheese and firm, juicy tomatoes was a killer combination (it also felt virtuously healthy, although there’s probably as much fat here as a Big Mac).

Next up, our mains of vegetable tart (£11.50) and grilled whole plaice (£12.95) kept up the high standards. In particular, the expertly grilled plaice was a real highlight – a generously large portion of delicate white fish given a deft, salty twist by strips of smoked bacon, plus a tangy bite of baby capers and cherry tomatoes. The roasted vegetable tart didn’t let the kitchen down, either. Again, it was a decent size and featured some obviously homemade pastry and strong flavours of goats’ cheese and basil leading the way. Our shared side order of delicious new potatoes (£2.50) added a few essential carbs.

We’d already enjoyed a sublime meal. And the good times continued with desserts as we succumbed to the siren’s call of a selection of ‘Lord Nelson favourite puds in miniature’ (£10 for two people) – like a box of Celebrations, but better. Only a fool would resist the chance to try as many desserts as it’s possible to fit on a plate: a comforting sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce, a decadent white chocolate cheesecake and fresh strawberries and a subtle-flavoured summer berry and elderflower jelly. Best of all was the life-affirmingly rich warm strawberry and almond tart.

Perhaps it was the port talking (Barros ruby at £2 for 50ml), but we reckoned that every man (and woman) has done their duty here at The Lord Nelson – especially Nichola Thompson, who, at only 21, is a talent to watch.

If you’re a credit crunch worrier, it might be an idea to take advantage of the special Monday to Wednesday deal: two courses for £13.95 and three courses for £16.95.  

The new owners have said they want the Lord Nelson to be part of Burton Joyce – ‘a local pub for local people’ which all sounds a bit Royston Vasey. But don’t be put off – for the rest of us, the food at the Lord Nelson is still definitely worth the trip along the A612. David Sandhu

The Lord Nelson, Chestnut Grove, Burton Joyce NG14 5DN. Tel: 01159 311 800. Dinner served from 5.30pm to 9pm (Mon-Thurs) and 5.30pm to 10pm (Fri & Sat).

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WAGGON & HORSES

**** (four stars)

Waggon & Horses, East Midlands

Just down the road from well-heeled Southwell, the Waggon & Horses has been building a reputation for quality food for several years now. And, with a brand new menu and the recent accolade of ‘2006 Dining Pub of the Year Nottinghamshire’ in the Good Pub Guide, it didn’t take much to persuade us to pay our first visit.

This relatively small pub lies on the main road through the village of Halam. On a humid autumn evening, we would have liked to have gone alfresco but the few outside tables were right by the road. It’s a traditional boozer – the building dates back 1762 – all timbered beams, green wellies and red-cheeked country folk. You certainly know you’re in Middle England here.

With an impressive turnout for a Wednesday, it was quite hot and cramped inside (this would probably feel cosy on a winter’s day, though). You also have to fight your way to the bar before being seated. We were led to a small, rather uncomfortable, ill-fitting wooden table in the corner – and the oppressive exposed brick and red walls weren’t doing much for our mood either (although the Victorian cricket portraits are a nice touch).

To live up to its billing as one of the best gastro pubs in Notts, the food would have to be something special. We soon found out that it was…

Although I was tempted by a pint of ale (after all, the hand pulled beers here are from the Daniel Thwaites brewery of Lancashire, the UK’s largest family run brewery). However, the excellent menu looked like it would better suit a glass of white – so we glugged large glasses (250ml) of Australian Deakin Estate Sauvignon Blanc (£4.75 each). That menu was a mouth-watering prospect of simple, well-considered dishes: starters including pan-fried pigeon breast, Quince and onion marmalade and dressed rocket (£6), and smoked goose breast with pear and walnut salad (£7); mains of glazed duck breast, roast beetroot and onions (£13), and buttered roast fennel and mushroom risotto (£11).

Our starter choices were the slow-cooked vegetable soup (£4.50) and stilton and leek potato cake (£6). It was a promising start – the soup was a steamy autumnal stew of root vegetables, predominantly parsnip, topped with a creamy brie crouton. Meanwhile, the potato cake was a melting mixture of rich stilton and juicy leeks given an exquisite twist of textures by the accompanying chunky tomato salsa which added crunch and coolness to the yielding softness of the warm, fluffy potato.

You’d be a fool to miss the blackboard specials here. In fact, we chose both of our mains from the list – a seabass fillet (£13) and baked salmon (£12) – and weren’t disappointed. My friend’s salmon was a generous portion of fish on a bed of asparagus, tomato and spinach – this expertly cooked fish was succulent and well balanced by the vegetables. I was equally delighted by my seabass that came pan-fried with an inspired seasonal sauce of pumpkin and spring onion. The soft white flesh was enlivened by the sweetness of the pumpkin and given extra punch by the sharper-tasting dressing of dill and mustard.

All the portions were a good size. Not to mention the huge bamboo container of steamed vegetables (courgettes, carrots, potatoes and green beans) plus a bowl of truly irresistible thinly sliced crispy fried potatoes.

Our desserts were fabulous, too. The gin & tonic sorbet sounded intriguing but I was pleased not to miss out on the dark chocolate and Griottine cherry crème brulee (£5), a sinfully smooth concoction of pure pleasure – the bitter-sweet flavours of the whole cherries blending perfectly with the strong chocolate. A similar combination of tastes – wild cherry and dark chocolate ice cream (£5 for two scoops) –– also worked wonders for my dining companion. 

We’re not surprised that the Waggon & Horses has won so many plaudits. Head chef and co-owner Roy Wood (no, not that one!) keeps the cooking admirably simple and the non-smoking policy throughout the bar and restaurant is another smart move. This is pub grub taken to a higher level. David Sandhu

The Waggon and Horses, The Turnpike, Halam, Nottinghamshire. Tel: 01636 813109. Open for meals Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6-9.30pm and Sun 12-3pm.