**** (four stars)
Just down the road from well-heeled Southwell, the Waggon & Horses has been building a reputation for quality food for several years now. And, with a brand new menu and the recent accolade of ‘2006 Dining Pub of the Year Nottinghamshire’ in the Good Pub Guide, it didn’t take much to persuade us to pay our first visit.
This relatively small pub lies on the main road through the village of Halam. On a humid autumn evening, we would have liked to have gone alfresco but the few outside tables were right by the road. It’s a traditional boozer – the building dates back 1762 – all timbered beams, green wellies and red-cheeked country folk. You certainly know you’re in Middle England here.
With an impressive turnout for a Wednesday, it was quite hot and cramped inside (this would probably feel cosy on a winter’s day, though). You also have to fight your way to the bar before being seated. We were led to a small, rather uncomfortable, ill-fitting wooden table in the corner – and the oppressive exposed brick and red walls weren’t doing much for our mood either (although the Victorian cricket portraits are a nice touch).
To live up to its billing as one of the best gastro pubs in Notts, the food would have to be something special. We soon found out that it was…
Although I was tempted by a pint of ale (after all, the hand pulled beers here are from the Daniel Thwaites brewery of Lancashire, the UK’s largest family run brewery). However, the excellent menu looked like it would better suit a glass of white – so we glugged large glasses (250ml) of Australian Deakin Estate Sauvignon Blanc (£4.75 each). That menu was a mouth-watering prospect of simple, well-considered dishes: starters including pan-fried pigeon breast, Quince and onion marmalade and dressed rocket (£6), and smoked goose breast with pear and walnut salad (£7); mains of glazed duck breast, roast beetroot and onions (£13), and buttered roast fennel and mushroom risotto (£11).
Our starter choices were the slow-cooked vegetable soup (£4.50) and stilton and leek potato cake (£6). It was a promising start – the soup was a steamy autumnal stew of root vegetables, predominantly parsnip, topped with a creamy brie crouton. Meanwhile, the potato cake was a melting mixture of rich stilton and juicy leeks given an exquisite twist of textures by the accompanying chunky tomato salsa which added crunch and coolness to the yielding softness of the warm, fluffy potato.
You’d be a fool to miss the blackboard specials here. In fact, we chose both of our mains from the list – a seabass fillet (£13) and baked salmon (£12) – and weren’t disappointed. My friend’s salmon was a generous portion of fish on a bed of asparagus, tomato and spinach – this expertly cooked fish was succulent and well balanced by the vegetables. I was equally delighted by my seabass that came pan-fried with an inspired seasonal sauce of pumpkin and spring onion. The soft white flesh was enlivened by the sweetness of the pumpkin and given extra punch by the sharper-tasting dressing of dill and mustard.
All the portions were a good size. Not to mention the huge bamboo container of steamed vegetables (courgettes, carrots, potatoes and green beans) plus a bowl of truly irresistible thinly sliced crispy fried potatoes.
Our desserts were fabulous, too. The gin & tonic sorbet sounded intriguing but I was pleased not to miss out on the dark chocolate and Griottine cherry crème brulee (£5), a sinfully smooth concoction of pure pleasure – the bitter-sweet flavours of the whole cherries blending perfectly with the strong chocolate. A similar combination of tastes – wild cherry and dark chocolate ice cream (£5 for two scoops) –– also worked wonders for my dining companion.
We’re not surprised that the Waggon & Horses has won so many plaudits. Head chef and co-owner Roy Wood (no, not that one!) keeps the cooking admirably simple and the non-smoking policy throughout the bar and restaurant is another smart move. This is pub grub taken to a higher level. David Sandhu
The Waggon and Horses, The Turnpike, Halam, Nottinghamshire. Tel: 01636 813109. Open for meals Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6-9.30pm and Sun 12-3pm.
