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EDIN’S

Is this the most bohemian street in NG1? Looking out on Broad Street from the perch of one of the tall stools at the stylish new deli-café Edin’s, it certainly feels that way. From the legendary Wild Clothing store to hip bars like Muse and the arty glamour of both the Broadway and The Screen Room cinemas, it’s a street that’s certainly having a moment…

Directly across from Edin’s is Shaw’s cafe and restaurant, the bistro-style restaurant housed in an atmospheric old industrial building with its own distinctive, often eclectic, vibe (although the food could be rather hit and miss). So it’s no surprise to learn that the eponymous Edin Gondzic was formerly one of the proprietors of Shaw’s. The Bosnian entrepreneur obviously knows a good location when he sees it. And now he’s brought his unique European sensibility a few yards across the road to this new operation.

Edin’s one of those rare places where you feel at home almost as soon as you walk in. The sofa with overstuffed pillows, the skilfully mismatched tables and chairs, the baskets of fruit and veg, the classic black and white film posters, the copies of Gazetta dello Sport and Le Monde, the Latin jazz soundtrack… all this could be horribly pretentious in the wrong hands, but here it feels right. In fact, if you’re ever suffering from a hangover in the Hockley vicinity, we recommend soothing it away here.

The set up is trendy cafe-bar up front, proper restaurant in the back. You order from either from the constantly changing blackboards or from the menus – single sheets of paper stuck onto wooden slabs.

Dishes range from light tapas and meat and cheese plates to full meals. But there are no rules here, it’s that take-or-leave-it continental ethos – so, in the spirit of the place, we decided to share a range of dishes in no particular order. So we ended up sampling the tempura prawns (£5.95), cheese omelette (£4.95), falafels (£4.95), cous cous salad (£4.50) and home-made fries (£2).

The tempura prawns were particularly good – four chunky examples of fresh seafood encased in a crisp batter and accompanied by a sweet chilli dip with a wickedly hot kick. We also enjoyed the omelette which was, as you might expect from a continental kitchen, cooked runny – and given a real edge by the generous Halloumi filling. Meanwhile, the falafels were obviously freshly made and that distinctive spicy chickpea filling was spot-on. The only disappointment was the salad which, although very healthy thanks to all the red chard, featured lumpy and hard grains of cous cous.

While most of the pricing seemed fine, the small portions of chips weren’t particularly good value – at £2 a throw, we needed three between the pair of us and we’re not complete bloaters (honest). So if you want to load up on the carbs, this might not be the place.

The wine selection consists of around 20 well-priced bottles – which you can also purchase (at half price) and take home. We opted for the house red (good value at only £8.50), an easy-drinking Campo Nuevo Tempranillo from Navarra in the Basque region of Spain (currently one of the most exciting wine-growing areas, according to those in the know).

Finally, we shared a fulfilling dessert of American cranberry tart (£2.50) with the wholesome goodness of thick, buttery pastry and the lush, bitter-sweet tang of the cranberries. Washed down with a superb Cappuccino (£1.85), the meal ended on a (caffeine) high.

Edin’s offers a welcome hangout throughout the day and evening. With the espresso machine firing up at 8am, and the last glass of wine poured at 11pm, it’s that kind of place. And that means a diverse range of punters, too. From creatives discussing projects over 9am lattes to stylish shoppers nipping in for a quick lunch, or diners before (or after) the latest Brazilian blockbuster across the road at Broadway, Edin’s fills a niche in the market. Although Rosy Lee’s Tea Room next door looks like an interesting prospect, too.

There’s also a genuinely continental feel here and it’s an intangible quality. Perhaps Edin himself just has knack for creating it. Or the fact that we heard both Italian and Spanish (and Texan) spoken around the small dining room makes it feel like the real deal. Add in the free Wi-Fi and the daily papers to flick through and you’ve got a café that’s a cut above.

Although the dining room wasn’t particularly busy on our visit, the front café section was rammed, perhaps because it’s not immediately obvious that there’s more room at the back. Word of mouth recommendation should sort that out, though.

Thanks to Edin’s, you may not feel the need to get that train to St Pancras for the Eurostar. The quintessential continental café has come to us instead. David Sandhu

Edin’s Deli Café, 15 Broad Street, Nottingham. Tel: 0115 924 1112. Open daily from 8am to 11pm.

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THE BANYAN TREE

If, like Metro, you still have a soft spot for Little Chefs (those iconic roadside diners of our childhoods), you may be slightly miffed when they transform into other businesses – even a gourmet curry house, for instance. That’s what’s happened at the Red Hill roundabout (a few miles north of the city centre up Mansfield Road), which now houses The Banyan Tree.

Ever since it opened last year, we’ve heard good things about the food there. But, as confirmed urbanites, we’ve always whizzed past on our way to the big, bad city. This time, however, we turned off the A60 and taxied through the Texaco petrol station forecourt to arrive at the familiarly box-shaped one-storey building.

The car-park was already packed, but there was still space for ours. And, of course, that’s probably one of the Banyan Tree’s major attractions for many punters. Never mind the soulless location, there’s free and ample parking! A rather depressing thought, nonetheless.

As we entered the fray, already hot and heaving with a mature crowd of local couples and families, we didn’t mind waiting a while on a white leather sofa as they took our orders. They’ve certainly made a decent job of the interiors – all muted tones and trendy wallpaper.

According to the promo blurb, The Banyan Tree is “No ordinary tree, no ordinary restaurant” And as we’ve read so often, they promised the freshest of ingredients – “all our spices and sauces are skilfully prepared from primary ingredients which naturally yield flavours that are distinct in taste and quality.”

More interestingly, the Executive Chef Mr Himmat Singh Nathawat apparently honed his skills and unique style at The Cinnamon Club, one of London’s top contemporary Indian eateries – so our expectations were high.

The menu looked solid; nicely balanced between the usual classic faves, and some particularly intriguing options on the chef’s signature dish list, including starters of Pakhandi Kebab (£4.50) ‘chicken wings coated in corn flower with crushed black pepper seasoning – deep fried and dipped in a special spicy sweet and sour sauce’, and mains of Aachari Palak (£10.95) – ‘lamp chops tenderised in mustard oil and pickling spice marinade, then slow cooked in a Bhuna-style sauce with spinach, garlic and pickled onions; and Duck Sizzler (£13.95) – ‘Gressingham duck breast marinated in green herbs and tandoori spices, served on a sizzling platter with juliennes of onions and pepper’.

To do the menu justice, we decided to try a combination of the chef’s specials and traditional dishes. First up were starters of Harayli tikka (£4.75) and shabzi pakora (£3.50). My tikka featured three smallish cubes of succulent chicken breast which had been marinated in herbs and yoghurt, then grilled in the tandoori. Although the unique smoky flavour of the tandoori was rather muted, it allowed the delicate freshness of the herbs, particularly mint, to shine. Meanwhile, the pakora comprised a naughty-but-nice selection of deep-fried vegetables, including aubergine, cauliflower and potato.

It was a promising start. But any goodwill gradually evaporated during the seemingly endless wait for our main courses – a disappointing 45 minutes. When they did arrive, things perked up again: my friend relished her mixed vegetable massala (£6.95) with pilau rice (£2.75) – the richness of the sauce given authority by the pureed plumb tomatoes and an edge of fresh garlic and ginger. My Malabari prawns (£13.95) also didn’t disappoint – although, to justify almost 14 quid for three prawns, they needed to be quality! Fortunately, these gigantic juicy specimens were exquisitely infused in a creamy sauce of ground mustard, fennel seeds, coconut milk and fresh herbs and combined fabulously with the tangy lemon rice (£3.25).

The restaurant was beginning to empty by 10pm (this is definitely not a late-night curry stop) as we shared a dessert from one of those familiar lamented menus. We quite enjoyed our lemon and lime cheesecake (even if it was newly defrosted); followed by the guilty retro pleasure of the complimentary After 8s.

According to the menu, “in India, the Banyan tree is revered for its mystical properties and provides a focal point for village folk to meet, take shade and watch the day go by. We take our inspiration from the organic yet mystical properties of this special tree and endeavour to grow our business in the same way.” Well, the owners here (who are also in partnership with Mansfield’s Monsoon Restaurant) seem to have a blossoming business – the overheads of an out-of-town place like this must surely be quite low, while the prioes are easily the equivalent of a city centre venue (around fifty quid for two) and trade certainly appears healthy.

No doubt about it, The Banyan Tree offers superior food to your average suburban Notts Indian restaurant. So, if hassle-free parking is important to your Saturday night curry experience and you don’t mind the highly un-exotic view of an NG5 petrol forecourt, set your SatNav for the A60/A614 Intersection… David Sandhu

The Banyan Tree, Former Little Chef, Red hill Roundabout A60/A614 Intersection, 520 Mansfield Road, Redhill, Nottingham. Open Mon-Thurs (5.30pm-11pm), Fri-Sat (5.30-11.30) and Sun (5.30pm-10pm). Tel: 0115 920 3080.

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CAUNTON BECK

It’s a tough job – but someone has to do it. The editors of the Good Pub Guide are constantly hunting for Britain’s best pubs (aren’t we all?), so every one featured must have exceptional food, drink and atmosphere.

When the 2009 edition landed on our desks last week, we immediately flicked to see who’d made it from the great East Midlands: most intriguingly, the Caunton Beck, Notts. Intriguing because this unassuming gastro-pub (part of a small group with the Wig & Mitre in Lincoln and Bottle & Glass in Harby, Notts) is renowned both locally and nationally for its food but flies under the radar when it comes to PR and all that malarkey.

Caunton is a small village near Newark. It’s not far from the A1 – so guidebook-reading foodies from across the country head here for the a la carte menu (which changes every few months) that’s served from noon every day.

The restaurant certainly looks impressive as you arrive. There’s an affluent feel to the place (and it’s not just the flash motors in the car-park). The building is actually relatively new – reconstructed using original timbers on the site of the former Hole Arms in 1997.

We resisted pre-meal pints (Batemans Valiant, Marstons Pedigree and Tom Woods Farmers Blonde are on draft) and were led straight into the less-populated restaurant area. The décor here felt a bit tired – the country-kitchen combination of rag-finished yellowish walls, wooden benches with pink cushions and a hotch-potch of pictures (what were those military coats- of-arms all about?) could use a revamp. Nevertheless, the subdued lighting and open fire creates a relaxing ambiance. It’s almost too relaxing – with few punters on a Tuesday night and no background music, the atmosphere was morgue-like.

Of course, the menu is the star attraction and it sparkles with possibilities: from starters of confit of belly pork with a parsnip and mustard seed puree (£6.95) and carpaccio of beef with pickled celeriac (£7.95) to mains of British beef and Irish stout pie (£12.50) and seared salmon fillet with shredded crispy beetroot (£13.50). Actually, there must have been a good catch of salmon recently as it seemed to dominate the menu.

The specials board is an important part of the offering here, too. It contained almost as many options as the menu itself – so we spent ages flip-flopping between the two.

A nice gourmet touch on the menu is the sommelier-style matching of the food with specific wines. So I happily accompanied my haddock and leek soufflé starter (£7.50) with their recommendation – an oaky 2007 Chilean Chardonnay Biplano (a pricey £5.55 for a 175ml glass), while my friend chose Pinot Grigio (better value at £3.75) with her Thai fish cakes.

Both opening dishes were superb. The smoked haddock chunks and fresh leek were baked within a creamily, fluffy soufflé to create a fulfilling dish of real class. Meanwhile, my friend’s two fish cakes were light and crispy with flakes of salmon subtly infused with Thai spices and enlivened by sweet chilli and ginger jelly.

For our mains, I opted for the specials board and the chicken breast and risotto (£12.50) while my friend stuck to the main menu and the vegetarian tartlet (£12.50). Both main courses were greened up with some fresh veg.

My dish differed considerably from the red wine risotto promised – it arrived with pancetta within the grainy risotto (good job I liked pancetta then). However, the additional meat made this already salty dish rather rich. The chicken was expertly cooked but the overall savouriness was almost overwhelming – especially with a melted Colston Bassett stilton topping.

Blue cheese (a Blue vinny) was also making a tasty impact on my friend’s tart – the large portion of tomato and thyme tart also included a sprinkling of rocket leaves. Again, it was delicious – but rather heavy on the flavours.

Finally, we only had ourselves to blame for ending this indulgent meal with a shared duo of decadent desserts. There were lots of other interesting options including a few we didn’t even understand – candied orange and rosemary cassonades (£4.95) or baked damson and sloe gin posset (£4.95) anyone? – so we played it straight with the walnut chocolate brownie (£4.95) and a chocolate torte (£4.95). Alongside an espresso (£2.25) and a liqueur coffee with brandy (£5.50), we compared notes on our chocolate puds – the generous slice of bitter dark chocolate torte just about stole the show, especially with an orange marmalade topping giving it a tangy edge. Meanwhile, we doubted whether the brownie really needed some maple syrup. Too much is never enough for this kitchen, it seems.

Caunton Beck is one of those slightly smug country retreats that knows its cooking is a cut-above – and those countless guidebook recommendations prove it. Occasionally, though, it seems too showy – for instance, the wine list cover advertises Krug for £24.95 a glass (£139.50 a bottle).

The Good Pub Guide also waxes lyrical about the ‘warmly welcoming service at this lovely inn’. But we found the atmosphere rather chilly at times. Our waitress even seemed slightly annoyed when we requested a corner table (set for four) – despite the virtually deserted dining room.

This is certainly one of our region’s finest gastro-pubs. But our eternal quest to find the perfect boozer (thankfully) continues… David Sandhu

The Caunton Beck, Caunton, Newark. Tel: 01636 636 793. Open for food daily 11.45am-10pm.

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THE WOLLATON

This lot make it look easy. With British boozers supposedly under increasing threat, the Moleface Pub Company, a small local chain, are fast gaining a reputation for taking rather unloved local pubs and turning them into the kind of gastro pubs we’d all like around our way. They’ve already transformed both the Larwood and Voce at Trent Bridge and, more recently, The Lord Nelson in Burton Joyce. Metro was impressed by both – particularly the culinary flair at the latter – so we wondered whether they could make it a hat-trick in NG8, down the road from lovely Wollaton Park?

The Wollaton was formerly The Willoughby Arms, one of those cavernous suburban pubs which you drive past pondering why you’d ever visit: none of the buzz of an urban venue or the charm of a country boozer. But a £400,000 refurb has almost achieved the impossible – creating a trendy, open-plan space in such a humdrum setting.

Locals will hardly recognise the place. The dining area now has a plush, grown-up feel – a modern take on Victorian aesthetics with plum drapes and dark woods, turn-of-the-century artwork and subdued lighting from the chandeliers. And we’ll let you discover the weird wallpaper in the loos for yourself. We liked it a lot. 

They like to play it simple here – even the menu is just one side of an A4 sheet. And it couldn’t be more British, and there’s more than a hint of that Victorian influence again in some of the dishes on offer. From the black pudding scotch egg starter (£4.50) to the main course of roast rack of lamb from the Belvoir Estate with new potatoes and minted greens (£29.95 for two) and a vanilla rice pudding with stewed fruits (£5), this is seriously old-school with a modern twist.

After some delicious home-baked granary bread and large glasses of Touraine Sauvignon Blanc (£5.65) and Torrelongares Rose (£4.75), we opted for two classic starters. My friend’s pear, walnut and Cropwell Stilton salad (£5) was exquisite: quality ingredients, elegantly arranged, which livened the palate with its freshness – and, of course, that local Stilton is something to be proud of. Meanwhile, my cured salmon (£5.50) was also outstanding – three perfect slices of salmon given a rich, full flavour by the accompanying Norfolk crab, tomato and avocado.

 Our mains continued along the fish route. My bream (£10.50) was a further delight – a pan-fried fillet teamed with parsley new potatoes and given a lively kick by a zingy caper and beetroot relish. And my friend’s salmon (£11.50) also didn’t disappoint either: a generous portion, poached then drizzled in hollandaise, with tasty purple sprouting broccoli and bashed potatoes.

Finally, we shared a Wollaton sherry trifle (£5). This wasn’t quite as great as the rest of the meal – served in a long glass, it tasted too sugary and industrial and not as boozy as we might have hoped. We regretted missing the warm Bakewell tart with Blackmore Farm clotted cream (£5).

The Wollaton is a huge space. With dining not restricted to the restaurant area, there’s over 150 covers here. On our Saturday night visit it was reassuringly busy, but not rowdy. The large open kitchen also offers a sense of theatre.

So this is undoubtedly a promising start for The Wollaton. It certainly deserves to be a third success for the Moleface Pub Company. The service was among the quickest and most efficient we’ve experienced. At around £60 for two (and even less earlier in the day when there’s tempting deals, plus deli and tapas options), it’s also good value. The huge outdoors area will also come in very handy for some al fresco action as the sun starts to shine. There’s even talk of converting some of the outdoor space into a mini small holding with pigs and chickens. It all fits in with their admirable ethos of sourcing local produce. How hard can this restaurant lark really be? David Sandhu

The Wollaton, Lambourne Drive, Wollaton, Nottingham NG8 1GR

Tel: 0115 928 8610, www.thewollaton.co.uk

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TOM BROWN’S

Gunthorpe, 27°C: it doesn’t get much better (in Notts, at least). This popular beauty spot along the banks of the Trent lies within that scenic rural stretch around Burton Joyce, Lowdham and Southwell. And now that some proper sunshine has arrived, half of Nottinghamshire seems to descend upon these shores for a stroll past the lock and weir (although we wondered how many realised that Queen Boadicea apparently defeated the Roman Tenth Legion here in the 1st Century AD?).

Today, the only rivalry taking place here is between the fortunate half-dozen or so pubs and restaurants that boast river views including: The Unicorn where local bikers hang out over bitter and chip cobs, the Toll House (currently up for sale) and the former Anchor Inn where an interesting new Italian place called Pontefino remains under wraps. But still ruling the (albeit gentle) waves is Tom Browns Brassiere, a well-established restaurant with a clutch of plaudits – from Nottingham Restaurant Award gongs to AA rosettes and Egon Ronay gastropub status.

Unsurprisingly (given its name), Tom Browns is a converted Victorian schoolhouse with wooden floors, exposed brickwork and numerous dining rooms filled with nooks and crannies – catering to well over 100 covers. Alongside the ubiquitous white tablecloths and black leather seating, there are some nice individual touches – from the cheeky seaside postcard near the loos to the poignant photos of the former school.

Despite the stylish setting, Tom Browns is also renowned for value. It’s pricing has always been competitive – especially its legendary Early Bird special, which runs right up until 9.45pm on a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. We wanted to visit before sunset anyway (otherwise, what’s the point of driving out to the sticks?) – so it was a no-brainer at £15.95 for three course (£13.95 for two).

For a set-price deal, the choice is fairly good – around a dozen starter and main choices altogether, and a few dessert options on the Modern British-influenced menu (fairly predictable without anything especially outré).

We kicked off with carrot and coriander soup, and tomato and mozzarella salad. Both were competent efforts by the kitchen: the earthy flavours of the home-made soup were enriched by a splash of cumin oil, while the buffalo mozzarella was as clean and fresh as you’d expect.

Next up were our mains of ‘posh fish and chips’ (£2 surcharge on the Early Bird prices) and vegetarian croquettes. My fish and chips were a cut above your average chippy fare: a duo of crispy monkfish tails, lovingly battered, and accompanied by a cleverly constructed stack of potato ‘planks’ (the chunky chips so favoured by modern gastropubs). All complemented by some tangy tartar sauce and, best of all, minted fresh pea puree that paid due respect to that Notts culinary invention – mushy peas and mint sauce.

Meanwhile, my friend was equally pleased by the savoury delights of her potato and stilton croquettes – a satisfyingly wholesome bite, offset by a summery fennel and herb salad, with added spice provided by mustard mayonnaise.

We also ordered a side order of seasonal vegetables (£2.50) – a well-matched blend of tasty broccoli, carrots and cabbage.

Not everything was pure sailing Trentside, though. One of our puddings was a major let-down. I’d expected the artic roll to improve on the original 70s favourite – but, on this evidence, this was a retro dish best left in the past. The ice cream sponge was duller than a Showaddywaddy B-side – and the apple filling and sultana puree were little consolation. Should have gone for the crème brulee… Mind you, no complaints from my companion on her raspberry ripple ice cream.

It also has to be said that service was a touch erratic and pedestrian at times, perhaps due to the sheer number of covers on a sunny afternoon. Nevertheless, overall, this is a confident, well-oiled operation serving quality food.

And, with our final bill coming in at just over £50, including wine, it’s no wonder Tom Browns remains so popular, especially in the sunshine. Let the good times roll… David Sandhu

Three-course meal for two with wine: £55 (Early Bird)-£80 (A la carte)

Tom Browns, The Old School House, Riverside, Gunthorpe. Tel: 0115 966 3642 or visit www.tombrowns.co.uk. Open 7 days a week, serving food 12-2.30pm & 6-10pm.

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HIGOI

http://www.higoi.co.uk/images/Metro-19-aug-09-(2).jpg

**** (Four stars)

Nottingham, 1989: Cloughie’s Forest triumphing at Wembley, local house legend Graeme Park DJing at the Garage during the second ‘summer of love’… and authentic Japanese food arriving in the city thanks to Higoi. Yes, those were the days (nostalgia isn’t what it used to be) – and, fortunately, Higoi is still around to celebrate its 20th anniversary.

Established by head chef Mr Kato, this small, unassuming restaurant in the midst of studentville on Lenton Boulevard was a pioneering venture in the late Eighties. After all, where else in the East Midlands would you have found proper sashimi and sake? No wonder it garnered enthusiastic reviews from the national press at the time.

Nowadays, of course, you can buy sushi down your local supermarket. So how would this veteran of the Nottingham restaurant circuit compare to the likes of Yo! Sushi, Chino Latino and Wagamamas? We were ready to party like it was 1989…

First impressions, after ducked through the traditional cream curtains, into a small, uninspiring dining room, were that this place probably hasn’t changed much since Brother Beyond were bothering the charts. The homely mix of basic furniture, pinkish walls and eclectic collection of Japanese geisha prints and kabuki masks may lack the technological whiz of YO! and the glamour of Chino Latino’s – but Mr Kato’s lived-in lounge makes you hope that the food is the top priority. And the proportion of Japanese diners among the modest mid-week turn-out raised our expectations even higher.

There’s one table here where you sit on the floor Japanese-style, perched on leather cushions – it had to be done. The extensive – and, frankly, exciting – menu took a little working out, but the arrival of a sake lemon cocktail (£3.50) helped. Where to start? There are ‘dinner courses’ which is a set-meal deal: for instance, beef fillet steak and kara-age chicken (£25). Then there’s a good range of sushi and sashimi dishes, plus the ippinryoori (a la carte) selection, and the zensai (small plates such as gyoza dumplings at £5.50). Not to mention numerous accompaniments like soba noodles (£6.50).

Finally, serious Japanese foodies should book at least two days ahead for the kaiseki special tasting menu (£38 per person). Or, for a group, nabemono dishes (the do-it-yourself option around the table) such as sukiyaki with thin-sliced beef (£22 per person).

Chopsticks at the ready, my friend was thrilled by her choice of the chef’s special vegetarian dinner (£23). Plate after plate of interesting, innovative and occasionally baffling dishes – a blur of veggie delights: highlights included the ginger-infused tofu, fresh nigiri rolls, vinegar seaweed, and Japanese mushroom tempura. Only the avocado sashimi was slightly bland.

Meanwhile, powered by more sake (£9 per flask), I worked my way through other sections of the menu. From the Higoi special sushi selection, I was impressed by my nagoyan roll (£6.50): numerous slices of sushi containing scrumptious crispy breaded chicken and creamy salad with spicy miso sauce, artfully presented on a long plate – not the healthiest of sushi, but totally rewarding.

For my main, I went with moriawase (assorted) tempura of salmon, prawn, aubergine and courgette – all delicately battered, as you’d expect. However, the tentsuyu sauce (freshly grated ginger, radish, soy and seaweed) didn’t pack quite enough punch for my taste. Accompanying this, the moist, sticky gohan rice (£2) and inevitable miso soup (£2) were both the real deal. Even our ice cream dessert (£3.90) offered something different – a subtle green tea-infused tang.

Higoi is one of those rare restaurants that’ll keep you coming back for its myriad of possibilities (lucky Lentonites can even get takeaways here – 20% discount). It may take another couple of decades to get through that menu, but you’ll have fun trying. Here’s to another 20 years: kampai! David Sandhu

Higoi, 57 Lenton Boulevard, Nottingham. Tel: 0115 942 3379. Open Mon-Sat, 6.30-9.30pm.

Meal for two (with wine): £60

http://www.higoi.co.uk/images/Metro-19-aug-09-(2).jpg

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FARNDON BOATHOUSE

Despite having the Trent on our doorsteps there still aren’t that many decent places for a stylish summer meal by the river. An honourable exception is Tom Brown’s Brassiere in Gunthorpe where you spot water-skiers while sipping your chilled Chardonnay. So we were intrigued to hear about the opening of Farndon Boathouse last month which is apparently part-owned by one of the backers of Tom Brown’s.

Formerly known as The New Ferry Restaurant, the building has undergone a major redevelopment and refurbishment programme using many natural materials, clad in wood, with warehouse-style lighting exposing chunky exposed roof trusses, stone floors and large windows ensuring great river views. We particularly liked the moody black and white boat-related prints throughout the dining room. Overall, it’s an impressively slick operation with smartly uniformed staff patrolling the spacious bar and two dining spaces. And, when the weather holds, there’s a modern outdoor terrace with raised decking.

We certainly weren’t the first to hear the buzz on this place – it was packed on our weekend visit, despite only being open less than a fortnight. The punters are flocking here for a solid menu of mainly modern British staples. Typical starters are warm Lincolnshire poacher and three onion tart with tomato relish (£4.50) and king prawn cocktail (£7), while mains include belly pork, bubble ‘n’ squeak, brown sauce and apple chutney (£11); sausages, creamed potato puree, red wine & shallot jus with crispy onions (£9) and beer battered fish, fat chips, marrowfat peas and tartar sauce (£10).

After kicking off with some fresh baked bread which came with olive oil, balsamic vinegar and oven roasted whole garlic (£2), my friend opted for one of the few veggie choices on the main menu: a puff pastry gallette (£8.50). She should have asked what it was because it turned out, rather disappointingly, to be akin to a squashed vol-a-vent. Even the accompanying mozzarella, basil, vine tomatoes and olives couldn’t quite rescue it. Plus she needed a couple of side orders – seasonal vegetables (£2) and new potatoes (£2) – to beef it up.

Talking of which, I knew exactly what I expected from the Boat House gourmet burger – for £11, you want the full monty. Fortunately, I wasn’t disappointed by the home-cooked rump steak mince blended into a fearsome burger with barn bacon (locally sourced from ‘over the road at Hardys farm shop’, according to the menu) plus exquisite mature Long Clawson stilton, in a toasted focaccia bun. Add in the subtle bitterness of a rocket and chard salad, a super tangy tomato and chipotle relish, and skinny chips that had been triple fried to make them extra addictive. All in all, a calorific feast. This meaty masterpiece reminded us that gourmet burgers are sometimes hard to come by in Notts. Sure, you can always head for the reliably excellent Delilah deli, but both Ultimate Burger and Rare sadly closed within a year a while back.

On the subject of quality meat, this place also seems rather proud of its sausages. According to the website, Head Chef Dan Garner will be getting together with the renowned Nottingham butchers J.T. Beedhams to try and invent ‘a new sausage exclusive to the Boathouse’. Nice one, lads!

Finally, both of our dessert choices excelled. My lemon tart (£4.50) was a slice of zestful heaven, especially when teamed with the innovative home-grown rosemary sorbet. Meanwhile, my friend felt redeemed by the warm Bramley apple and rhubarb pie (£4.50) which oozed with rich flavours from the thickly-cut chunks of fresh fruit and sweetened by the generous scoop of creamy vanilla pod ice cream.

It was a good way to end a decent, though not inexpensive, meal. And although describing Farndon, a few miles from Newark, as a ‘beauty spot’ might be a slight exaggeration, this is a pleasant enough place to be on a sunny-ish evening. There are also some nature walks around here if you want to go all Bill Oddie. And sailing types should be aware that the Farndon Boathouse has its own moorings for three boats (overnight mooring is free to diners – just call to book ahead). Actually, the nearby Farndon Marina is surprisingly impressive with dozens of boats on a tranquil 25-acre site.

So, while Gunthorpe may well be a prettier stretch of the Trent, Farndon Boathouse clearly has the potential to give Tom Brown’s a run for its money. Most promisingly of all, the Boathouse is currently running ‘Sunday Sessions’ of DJs and acoustic music as the sun sets over the river. From 6pm to 8.30pm, there’s a DJ doing his best Jose Padilla impression with some chilled-out ambient vibes, then there’s live acoustic music from local bands: (17th Aug – Urban 2) or  (24th Aug – The Herb Birds). Hey, it may not be quite the Café Del Mar but they’ve got the right idea. David Sandhu

 
The Riverside, Farndon, Newark, Mon to Fri noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 9.30pm, Sat to Sun noon to 3pm and 6pm to 9.30pm. Tel: 01636 676578 www.farndonboathouse.co.uk

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OLIVE MAGAZINE: NOTTINGHAM FOOD MAP 2006

Nottingham has always known how to enjoy itself. The city’s hedonistic nature, first defined in the groundbreaking 1960s novel Saturday Night and Sunday Morning, remains alive and well today. Thanks to its huge student population (one in 12 people living in the city is a full-time student) and the sheer number of stags and hens flooding into the city centre each weekend, Nottingham rivals bigger cities like Newcastle and Dublin in the good-time stakes. But don’t let that put you off. Away from the maddening crowds, Nottingham is one of the UK’s most cosmopolitan and stylish cities (after all, this is where design guru Paul Smith first cut his cloth): its compact city centre combining a proud history with cutting-edge modernity – from the world’s oldest pub to super-chic eateries and late-night lounges attracting national acclaim. In recent years, the emergence of a buzzing restaurant culture (demonstrated by the city’s first restaurant awards in 2003) has seen exciting new venues to rival the already legendary nightlife. Enjoy!

DON’T MISS…

  1. GOURMET BRUNCH AT DELILAH DELI
  2. LUNCH WITH THE CITY’S SLICKERS  AT HARTS
  3. INNOVATIVE COCKTAILS AT THE FUNKY BRASS MONKEY BAR
  4. DINNER AT THE AWARD-WINNING WORLD SERVICE RESTAURANT
  5. AFTER-HOURS DRINKS AT THE CELEB-FRIENDLY SAINT BAR

GREAT EATERIES

1. Geisha (3 The Broadway, Lace Market, Tel: 0115 959 8344. www.geishauk.com)Since opening in 2004, Geishahas raised the bar as Nottingham’s most ambitious destination restaurant. Offering a dazzling Far East-influenced menu, this top-end venture aims to slim the wallets of urbane locals with designerdrinking, dining and dancing within a 60-cover restaurant, lounge bar and basement club. Don’t miss the tempura lobster in creamy curry sauce (recently voted the UK’s best curry dish by Restaurant magazine).

2. Alley Café Bar (Cannon Court, Long Row West. Tel: 0115 955 1013). Loved by local veggies, this tiny venue is well worth seeking out. Dishes like black bean burrito and Tandoori tofu kebabs for under a fiver ensure it’s constantly busy. Intimate, bohemian and friendly, the bar also hosts funky evening events like beat poetry slams.

3. Shaw’s (20/22 Broad Street. Tel: 0115 950 0009).Despite being located near the arty Broadway Cinema, Shaw’s still feels like a ‘find’. Housed over two floors in a beautiful old industrial building, the antique shop fittings, red lamps, wicker chairs and comfy sofas create a rather eccentric neighbourhood eaterie. Genuinely charming and the bistro-style food – from a daily hand-written menu – is good value.

4. Chino Latino (Maid Marion Way. Tel: 0115 947 7444)There aren’t many places in town you’ll find dishes like green tea soba noodles, breaded lobster and jalapenos with coconut rice and lotus seeds. But you can here at this Japanese-South American fusion restaurant (the chef was recruited from London’s Nobu). Recommended cocktail: Sherwood Dragon.

5. CAST (Nottingham Playhouse, Wellington Circus. Tel: 0115 852 3898) Designed by award-winning architect Peter Moro (of Royal Festival Hall fame), Nottingham Playhouse is a listed building. And thanks to a £1.2 million lottery grant, it now boasts a delicatessen, CAST restaurant (decent modern European menu) and café bar –overlooking Anish Kapoor’s huge ‘Sky Mirror’.

6. Hart’s (Standard Court, Park Row. Tel: 0115 911 0666 www.hartsnottingham.co.uk). While fans (and it has many) believe Hart’s offers the finest kitchen and smartest service in town, critics find it rather too slick and corporate. Nevertheless, Hart’s has earned its place in the affections of Nottingham’s cognoscenti since opening in 1997 – the modern British cuisine has ensured a loyal clientele of lunching solicitors and affluent diners.

7. World Service (Newdigate House, Castle Gate. Tel: 0115 847 5587)  A major player in Nottingham’s restaurant revolution, World Service is housed in a 17th Century building skilfully converted into a voguish restaurant with a Japanese walled garden. As well as regaining its ‘Restaurant of the Year’ title at the Nottingham Restaurant Awards for a third successive year, it continues to garner national recognition. Signature dishes range from Gressingham duck leg with spicy plum sauce and roasted cashew nuts to belly pork with roast potato and Bramley apple sauce.

8. Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms (Old Lenton Lane. Tel: 0115 986 6566) Proof that Nottingham has arrived on the UK’s food scene comes courtesy of talented local chef Sat Bains retained his Michelin Star (the city’s first and only) at his recently revamped restaurant. Although located on the outskirts of town (taxi required), the nine-course Menu Degustation (£65 per head) is a sublime experience – look out for the surreal ham and pea course with liquefied peas poured from a teapot!

BEST BARS

9. Bluu (5, Broadway. Tel: 0115 950 5359) This large bar is typical of the venues around the regenerated Lace Market/Hockley area – a minimalist, industrial interior with a basement DJ bar where Nottingham’s cognoscenti hang out on huge leather sofas.

10. The Dragon (67, Long Row. Tel: 0115 941 7080). This previously scruffy pub close to the Market Square has been intelligently renovated into a comfortable boozer for grown ups. A friendly place for a pint.

11. Brass Monkey (11 High Pavement. Tel: 0115 840 4101). This is where the city’s most innovative cocktails are served from the long, Manhattan-style bar on High Pavement, a historic street in the Lace Market that’s now a boozer’s paradise.

12 & 13. Cock & Hoop (27, High Pavement) a real-ale, no smoking enclave given a stylish makeover by the adjoining Lace Market Hotel (recently earned acclaim from the Michelin guide). Meanwhile, the cosmopolitan Saint Bar (29, High Pavement), within the hotel, is an oasis of style and sophistication with a cocktail list (and prices) to match.

14. Dogma. This ever-popular bar(9 Byard Lane. Tel: 0115 988 6833) features a lively basement area that’s loud and lively, especially at weekends. Flirty and fun.

15. The Social (23 Pelham Street. Tel: 0115 950 5078). As the northern outpost of London’s famous Heavenly Social, this is the hub of the city’s trendy music scene – and has showcased early performances from major bands including The Strokes and Coldplay.

16. Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem (Brew House Yard. Tel: 0115 947 3171). It’s almost compulsory for visitors to sup at this atmospheric ancient inn (it claims to be the world’s oldest pub and is reputed to be haunted) carved into the limestone cliffs beneath Nottingham Castle.

COOL SHOPS

17. Gauntleys (Exchange Arcade, Tel: 0115 911 0555, www.gauntleywine.com) Since 1880, Gauntleys has been the place to come for fine wines, spirits and smoking paraphernalia. With more than 120 types of spirits on offer, the musty cellar boasts rare vintage cognacs and whiskies and Armagnac – not to mention 500 different wines. And the expert knowledge of the staff comes as no surprise because every wine sold is personally tasted at source, from the cask. Nice work if you can get it, we say…

18. Delilah (15 Middle Pavement. Tel: 0115 948 4461). My, my, my… this is an epicurean paradise for Notts foodies selling rare produce such as Spanish Iberico ham. There’s a cosy communal food bar for tapas-style ‘grazing’ including all-day breakfasts, or you can nibble free samples of dips, oils and chutneys. From Cropwell Bishop Stilton (one of 200 cheeses) to Wicked Hathern beers, many products sold are locally sourced. The try-before-you-buy policy is proving a popular way of educating the taste-buds of Nottingham’s more adventurous food shoppers.

19. Victoria Food Market. Based on the top floor of the Victoria Shopping Centre, the food court includes a genuinely retro Italian coffee bar (Aldo’s Café) and one of Nottingham’s quirky contributions to British cuisine – mushy peas with mint sauce from The Hot Pea Man stall.

20. Chocolate Utopia (30 Friar Lane. Tel: 0115 947 0016. www.chocolate-utopia.co.uk)WatchBelgian style chocolates being made the old fashioned way at this new shop dedicated to the art of confectionary. The Amaretto truffles are particularly irresistible.

HOT HOTELS

21. Lace Market Hotel (29, High Pavement. Tel: 0115 852 3232 www.lacemarkethotel.co.uk) These lovingly converted Georgian townhouses have undoubtedly been Nottingham’s hippest address since it opened as a boutique designer hotel in 1999. A pivotal part of the Lace Market scene, it has hosted many a discerning celebrity – from pop stars to footballers. Expect charming service, great food (in Merchants, the hotel’s popular brassiere) and drinks (see 12 & 13), and Aveda goodies in the minimalist bathrooms. Still the place to stay in the city.

Doubles from £119.

22. Hart’s Hotel (Standard Hill, Park Row. Tel: 0115 988 1900)Built upon the success of the eponymous restaurant and Hambleton Hall in Rutland, Hart’s Hotel is quietly cool. The 32-bedroomed boutique hotel stands upon the ramparts of Nottingham’s original medieval castle and the site of the former Nottingham General Hospital. Inside, things are resolutely contemporary – from the minimalist furniture to the Bose audio-visual gadgetry. Doubles from £120.

23. Jury’s Inn (Station Road. Tel: 0115 901 6700. www.jurysdoyle.com)

Situated next to Nottingham train station (a few minute’s walk from the Lace Market), the city’s newest hotel boasts 264 bedrooms, a restaurant and a waterfront bar. Doubles from £69.

24. Park Plaza Nottingham (41 Maid Marian Way. Tel: 0115 947 7200)

While not as hip as the boutique hotels, the four-star Park Plaza Nottingham offers a good compromise. Features 178 fully air-conditioned guestrooms, fitness suite and in-house restaurant – Chino Latino (4). Doubles from £90.

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BLENHEIM HOUSE

There are always little clues that let you know just how much a restaurant cares about its clientele. Take background music, for example – it may sound trivial but it can make or break the atmosphere of any venue. At Blenheim House Hotel’s new brassiere, the state-of-the-art soundsystem plays a gentle selection of chill-out tunes – it perfectly suits the intimate dining room of this mixed 18th and 19th Century building in the heart of the pretty village of Etwall, a few miles from Derby. In other words, this is a restaurant that takes the details seriously, somewhere that really bothers about its paying punters.

This first impression was soon confirmed by our meal at the hotel’s new brassiere that has recently opened to complement its exclusive 20-cover restaurant.  The new dining space has an intimate and welcoming feel – rich red carpets, creamy walls that showcase some impressive abstract paintings (Blenheim House exhibits the work of local artists) and smart brown and taupe high-backed chairs. With clever lighting and the intelligent soundtrack, this is undoubtedly a class act.

Scouring the wide-ranging menu, the choice included Modern British (black pudding, pancetta and packed egg salad); Italian (tagliatelle of asparagus, wild mushrooms, sun-blushed tomatoes, roasted pine nuts and basil leaves); and local produce like Derbyshire country sausages and mash with red onion gravy.

After a marvellous munch of olive bread, we opted for a starter of grilled goats cheese beetroot salad and sauce vierge (£4.95) followed by Thai fish cakes with sweet chilli sauce (£9.95). Other tempting main courses included roasted shank of Derbyshire lamb, horseradish mash, salad of mixed vegetables, and thyme jus (£14.50), battered cod and chunky chips, mushy peas and tartar sauce (£10.95), and maize-fed chicken breast with red pepper, asparagus and tomato pappardelle (£12.95). At lunch-time, a range of gourmet sandwiches is also available – including brie, pear and watercress on tasted ciabatta (£3.95); and pan-fried chicken lemon mayo and mixed leaves (£5.95) – served with salad, olives and fries. A bargain deal, surely?

Everything about our meal was exemplary. From the melt-in-the-mouth creaminess of the goats cheese complemented perfectly by the beetroot salad, to the more than generous portion of spicy Thai fishcakes that tasted fresh from the frying pan. Our accompanying bottle of Argentine Sauvignon Blanc (£13.95) was suitably clean and crisp and the side order of Belgium fries (those home-cooked long, thin ones) for £1.95 didn’t disappoint either. Finally, the pudding of rich chocolate truffle with raspberry coulis was sensationally smooth and decadently delicious. Overall, this was premier league comfort food – ideal for a chilly autumnal night.

Formerly the village pub, Blenheim House was elegantly refurbished to create a stylish country hotel, pub, restaurant, brassiere and wedding/conference venue. There are 10 bedrooms, each with their own individual design, decorated in opulent style – including two four poster suites for the ultimate in romping pleasure. According to the hotel itself: “the bedrooms smell of beeswax and Crabtree & Evelyn. Mulberry fabrics. Goose down pillows and duvets with Egyptian cotton slips. Where nothing is too much trouble.”

Based upon our experience of their excellent brassiere, it might be worth considering Blenheim for a special occasion. And, for business travellers, local gourmands or discerning day-trippers exploring the rugged countryside of Derbyshire and Staffordshire, Blenheim House makes a great stopover for lunch or dinner. As proprietor Peter Simpson explains of his restaurant: “We opened the Blenheim House to provide a context for our passion, simple, quality food with flavours that shine.” There’s no arguing with that. Blenheim House is pure quality.

Blenheim House, Main Street, Etwall, Derbyshire, lunch served Mon to Sat noon to 2.30pm and Sun noon to 3pm, dinner served in the brassiere Mon to Sat 6pm to 9.30pm, restaurant 7pm to 9.30pm, closed Sun eve. Tel: 01283 732254.

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WAGAMAMA

It’s all too easy to take places like Wagamama for granted. Since the groundbreaking basement noodle canteen opened in Bloomsbury back in the early Nineties, its Zen-like devotion to healthy eating has become an international phenomenon. And, when the Nottingham branch opened in April 2001 as part of the Cornerhouse complex, the 110-seater canteen was an immediate success: its huge, street-facing windows revealing row upon row of noodle-slurping devotees most nights.

Modelled on Japanese ramen bars, it’s amazing how normal the whole Wagamama thing seems today – the meet-your-neighbour bench seating, the scribbling of orders on place mats, the healthy eating ethos (‘positive eating + positive living’)… We’re so used to it all now.

UK Wagamama branches serve the same menu: rice plate meals and Japanese ramen, soba and udon noodles, cooked teppanyaki-style on a flat griddle or simmered in huge, steaming bowls of spicy soup. All served super-quickly and efficiently. It’s a culinary concept which has been widely imitated, but rarely beaten.

But even the most successful of menus needs an occasional remix – so Wagamama have gone big on salads for their latest summer offering. There are five new salad dishes up for grabs, including cumin chicken (£8.25), prawn noodle (£8.25) and warm scallop and bacon (£8.95).

We went for the other two combinations: smoked salmon (£8.95) and mushroom, asparagus and tofu (£7.75). With a forest of mixed leaves, avocado, peppers and spring onion, my smoked salmon salad might sound a bit worthy and dull – but far from it: the decent portion of lightly smoked shredded fish was totally enlivened by a genius-like combination of wasabi and miso dressing. Meanwhile, my friend’s tofu and wild mushrooms were tossed through a salad of soba noodles, asparagus, pepper and red onion – again, the dressing rocked: a subtle, tangy mustard.

Of course, we also supplemented the meal with a selection of Wagamama’s fabulous side-order options. The ebi gyoza (£4.95), five prawn and vegetable dumplings, are almost worth it for the spicy citrus ponzu dipping sauce alone – however, I’ve never understood why Wagamama feel the need to deep fry them when they’re much tastier pan-fried or boiled. No such complaints about our other side dishes – you really can’t go wrong with edamame (£3.50), the fresh pop-in-your-mouth soya beans flavoured with chill and garlic salt, and immaculately crunchy grilled asparagus (£4.10) lightly coated in a citrus yakitori sauce and garnished with sesame seeds.

All of this virtuous loveliness was accompanied by two of Wagamama’s legendary fresh juices (somehow, you can’t help being healthy here): carrot (£3.95, large) which zinged with ginger; and raw juice (£2.95, small) boasting the virtuousness of carrot, cucumber, tomato, orange and apple.

Even the desserts have a wholesome edge – from the mango with lime zest and lychee sorbet (£3) to the tamarind and chilli pavlova (£4.50) and coconut reika (£3.10). We opted to take away a couple of natural fruit ice lollies (£1.50 each) – watermelon and raspberry flavours – to indulge ourselves in the fading sunshine. A cool way to round off a spirit-enhancing meal…

Actually, it’s a shame this branch hasn’t got any alfresco space, because their revised menu is ideal for long, hot summer days and nights. But, while overall enjoyment requires some tolerance of the often cramped canteen-style dining experience, its high-quality ingredients and smooth-running style still make this a cut above most high street chain restaurants. Plus you can usually count on change from fifty quid here. Wagamama’s ‘way of the noodle’ philosophy remains as relevant as ever. David Sandhu

Meal for two with wine: £48

Wagamama, The Cornerhouse, Burton street, Nottingham. Tel: (0115) 924 1797.Open Mon-Sat: 12-11pm; Sun: 12-10pm.