The heat was on and Nottingham sizzled like downtown Athens. So what better excuse for Metro to sample one of the city’s newest Greek restaurants? Or should that be one of the city’s only Greek restaurants.We’re not exactly blessed with an abundance of Greek food in these parts. In fact, the only other place to immediately spring to mind is Eviva Taverna. Now based on Barker Gate, it’s been the place to smash a few plates ever since 1973 when it claimed to be the first Greek restaurant in the entire Midlands.
So unlike most other cuisines, Greek food doesn’t seem to have really taken off in Notts. That’s why we were genuinely excited by the news of Yamas which opened earlier this spring in the unpromising location of Thurland Street, tucked well away from trendy Pelham Street. Although Yamas bills itself as a Mediterranean tapas restaurant, the emphasis is firmly Grecian.
Word must have got around quickly: On a steamy Monday evening, the place looked full to bursting (although we subsequently learned that the upstairs dining room was closed). Even more encouragingly, the clientele comprised students (who can always sniff out a bargain) and Mediterranean family groups (surely a good sign of the food’s authenticity?).
Nobody was here for the interiors, though – a bland mish-mash of dull paintings and furniture. Or the view – the litter-strewn pavement outside New Look and the occasional passing hoodie. So let’s just say this might not be ideal first date territory.
Fortunately, the owner/manager (who apparently also owns the Dionysus restaurant in Arnold) is everything you’d want from any neighbourhood taverna – an avuncular Greek geezer, straight out of central casting, who roams the room checking the welfare of his customers. If only all restaurants boasted someone with this kind of passion and enthusiasm for their business… Top bloke.
Despite the prosaic surroundings, Yamas was growing on us, especially as the ice-cold Greek lagers (Mythos and Yeo – both £2.80 a bottle) worked their magic. Imagining ourselves back to the days of Greek island-hopping and the tavernas of Ios, Rhodes or Naxos, even the lengthy wait to be served seemed authentic. That’s how chilled we were.
We were delighted that Greek dishes dominate the Yamas menu. After all, there are more than enough Italian and Mediterranean tapas places elsewhere in NG1. Dishes from a solid selection span traditional taverna favourites such as moussaka (£4.85), dolmades (£3.95) and chicken souvlaki (£4.45) to less well-known options such as Stifado (beef casserole – £4.95) or Kefethes (Greek-style meatballs – £3.45). Several pasta dishes and non-Greek dishes are also available.
Although the menu also claims that “cold dishes will be served first,” all our chosen dishes (hot and cold) arrived together. By the time this bacchanalian feast finally arrived, we were almost ready to eat the cutlery. Again, the charm of our ebullient host smoothed the way.
We stuck mainly with Greek classics. In no particular order, our main picks were Greek Salad (£3.95), Kalamari (£4.50), aubergines and zucchini (£4.50), Yemista (£2.95), and Spanakopitta (£2.95).
Typical Greek flavours of oregano, mint and garlic set the tone. The slices of aubergine and courgette were perfectly fried in olive oil and felt effortlessly healthy. The Yemista comprised of two peppers stuffed with rice and a sprinkling of pine kernels and raisins which was nicely cooked but lacked any robust taste. The Greek salad was fresh if a little too fussy, (and certainly not one for the purists, as it contained rocket leaves). And the Spanakopitta (a familiar staple of those endless Greek ferry crossings) was an enjoyable blast from the past with feta cheese and spinach wrapped in crispy filo pastry.
But best of the lot was the kalamari, deep-fried rings of squid in a light golden batter – they only need a squirt of fresh lemon juice to create a sensational summer taste.
Alongside these dishes, the side-orders of Tirokafteri dip (£2.95) and Greek round bread (£1.95) were also hits. This spicy cheese dip, a wicked blend of cream and feta cheeses infused by a hit of chilli, worked well with the rustic bread. So we were glad we didn’t opt for the obvious choices of houmous, taramosalata, or tzatziki dips (perhaps next time…)
For some extra carbs, we went for the very non-Greek Patatas Bravas (£3.65) which turned out to be new potatoes (rather than the usual fried version) in a familiarly fiery tomato salsa.
Finally, we shared a dessert of Baklava (£2.95), layers of filo pastry with chopped almonds and delicious drizzle of honey syrup. Accompanied by a strong Greek coffee (£1.50) and a Glykaniso (£1.75), green tea with an aniseed twist, this was a satisfyingly sweet way to conclude matters.
The bill (for two with moderate booze) was one of the nicest surprises of all – just below the suitably mythic £50 mark. So, while Yamas isn’t the most glamorous place in town, it offers decent Greek cuisine at superb value which has got to be good news. By the way, “yamas” is Greek for “Our health” or “cheers”. And that says it all…
Yamas, 5 Thurland Street, Nottingham. Tel: 0115 950 1000. Open daily 12-11pm.
