Gunthorpe, 27°C: it doesn’t get much better (in Notts, at least).
This popular beauty spot along the banks of the Trent lies within that scenic rural stretch around
Burton Joyce, Lowdham and Southwell. And now that some proper sunshine has
arrived, half of Nottinghamshire seems to descend upon these shores for a
stroll past the lock and weir
(although we wondered how many realised that Queen Boadicea apparently defeated
the Roman Tenth Legion here in the 1st Century AD?).
Today,
the only rivalry taking place here is between the fortunate half-dozen or so
pubs and restaurants that boast river views including: The Unicorn where local
bikers hang out over bitter and chip cobs, the Toll House (currently up for
sale) and the former Anchor Inn where an interesting new Italian place called
Pontefino remains under wraps. But still ruling the (albeit gentle) waves is Tom Browns Brassiere, a well-established restaurant with a
clutch of plaudits – from Nottingham Restaurant Award gongs to AA rosettes and
Egon Ronay gastropub status.
Unsurprisingly
(given its name), Tom Browns is a converted Victorian schoolhouse with wooden
floors, exposed brickwork and numerous dining rooms filled with nooks and
crannies – catering to well over 100 covers. Alongside the ubiquitous white
tablecloths and black leather seating, there are some nice individual touches – from the cheeky
seaside postcard near the loos to the poignant photos of the former school.
Despite the stylish setting, Tom Browns is also renowned for value.
It’s pricing has always been competitive – especially its legendary Early Bird
special, which runs right up until 9.45pm on a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. We
wanted to visit before sunset anyway (otherwise, what’s the point of driving
out to the sticks?) – so it was a no-brainer at £15.95 for three course (£13.95
for two).
For a set-price deal, the choice is fairly good – around a dozen
starter and main choices altogether, and a few dessert options on the Modern
British-influenced menu (fairly predictable without anything especially outré).
We kicked off with carrot and coriander soup, and tomato and
mozzarella salad. Both were competent efforts by the kitchen: the earthy
flavours of the home-made soup were enriched by a splash of cumin oil, while
the buffalo mozzarella was as clean and fresh as you’d expect.
Next up were our mains of ‘posh fish and chips’ (£2 surcharge on
the Early Bird prices) and vegetarian croquettes. My fish and chips were a cut
above your average chippy fare: a duo of crispy monkfish tails, lovingly
battered, and accompanied by a cleverly constructed stack of potato ‘planks’
(the chunky chips so favoured by modern gastropubs). All complemented by some
tangy tartar sauce and, best of all, minted fresh pea puree that paid due
respect to that Notts culinary invention – mushy peas and mint sauce.
Meanwhile, my friend was equally pleased by the savoury delights
of her potato and stilton croquettes – a satisfyingly wholesome bite, offset by
a summery fennel and herb salad, with added spice provided by mustard
mayonnaise.
We also ordered a side order of seasonal vegetables (£2.50) – a
well-matched blend of tasty broccoli, carrots and cabbage.
Not everything was pure sailing Trentside, though. One of our
puddings was a major let-down. I’d expected the artic roll to improve on the
original 70s favourite – but, on this evidence, this was a retro dish best left
in the past. The ice cream sponge was duller than a Showaddywaddy B-side – and
the apple filling and sultana puree were little consolation. Should have gone
for the crème brulee… Mind you, no complaints from my companion on her
raspberry ripple ice cream.
It also has to be said that service was a touch erratic and
pedestrian at times, perhaps due to the sheer number of covers on a sunny
afternoon. Nevertheless, overall, this is a confident, well-oiled operation
serving quality food.
And, with our final bill coming in at just over £50, including
wine, it’s no wonder Tom Browns remains so popular, especially in the sunshine.
Let the good times roll… David Sandhu
Three-course meal for two with wine:
£55 (Early Bird)-£80 (A la carte)
Tom Browns, The Old School House, Riverside, Gunthorpe. Tel:
0115 966 3642 or visit www.tombrowns.co.uk.
Open 7 days a week, serving food 12-2.30pm & 6-10pm.
Nottingham, 1989:
Cloughie’s Forest triumphing at Wembley, local
house legend Graeme Park DJing at the Garage during the second ‘summer of
love’… and authentic Japanese food arriving in the city thanks to Higoi. Yes,
those were the days (nostalgia isn’t what it used to be) – and, fortunately,
Higoi is still around to celebrate its 20th anniversary.
Established by head chef
Mr Kato, this small, unassuming restaurant in the midst of studentville on Lenton Boulevard
was a pioneering venture in the late Eighties. After all, where else in the East Midlands would you have found proper sashimi and
sake? No wonder it garnered enthusiastic reviews from the national press at the
time.
Nowadays, of course, you
can buy sushi down your local supermarket. So how would this veteran of the Nottingham restaurant circuit compare to the likes of Yo!
Sushi, Chino
Latino and Wagamamas? We were ready to party like it was 1989…
First impressions, after
ducked through the traditional cream curtains, into a small, uninspiring dining
room, were that this place probably hasn’t changed much since Brother Beyond
were bothering the charts. The homely mix of basic furniture, pinkish walls and
eclectic collection of Japanese geisha prints and kabuki masks may lack the
technological whiz of YO! and the glamour of Chino Latino’s – but Mr Kato’s
lived-in lounge makes you hope that the food is the top priority. And the
proportion of Japanese diners among the modest mid-week turn-out raised our
expectations even higher.
There’s one table here
where you sit on the floor Japanese-style, perched on leather cushions – it had
to be done. The extensive – and, frankly, exciting – menu took a little working
out, but the arrival of a sake lemon cocktail (£3.50) helped. Where to start?
There are ‘dinner courses’ which is a set-meal deal: for instance, beef fillet
steak and kara-age chicken (£25). Then there’s a good range of sushi and
sashimi dishes, plus the ippinryoori (a la carte) selection, and the zensai
(small plates such as gyoza dumplings at £5.50). Not to mention numerous
accompaniments like soba noodles (£6.50).
Finally, serious Japanese
foodies should book at least two days ahead for the kaiseki special tasting menu
(£38 per person). Or, for a group, nabemono dishes (the do-it-yourself option
around the table) such as sukiyaki with thin-sliced beef (£22 per person).
Chopsticks at the ready,
my friend was thrilled by her choice of the chef’s special vegetarian dinner
(£23). Plate after plate of interesting, innovative and occasionally baffling
dishes – a blur of veggie delights: highlights included the ginger-infused
tofu, fresh nigiri rolls, vinegar seaweed, and Japanese mushroom tempura. Only
the avocado sashimi was slightly bland.
Meanwhile, powered by more
sake (£9 per flask), I worked my way through other sections of the menu. From
the Higoi special sushi selection, I was impressed by my nagoyan roll (£6.50):
numerous slices of sushi containing scrumptious crispy breaded chicken and creamy
salad with spicy miso sauce, artfully presented on a long plate – not the
healthiest of sushi, but totally rewarding.
For my main, I went with
moriawase (assorted) tempura of salmon, prawn, aubergine and courgette – all delicately
battered, as you’d expect. However, the tentsuyu sauce (freshly grated ginger,
radish, soy and seaweed) didn’t pack quite enough punch for my taste. Accompanying
this, the moist, sticky gohan rice (£2) and inevitable miso soup (£2) were both
the real deal. Even our ice cream dessert (£3.90) offered something different –
a subtle green tea-infused tang.
Higoi is one of those rare
restaurants that’ll keep you coming back for its myriad of possibilities (lucky
Lentonites can even get takeaways here – 20% discount). It may take another
couple of decades to get through that menu, but you’ll have fun trying. Here’s
to another 20 years: kampai! David
Sandhu
Despite
having the Trent
on our doorsteps there still aren’t that many decent places for a stylish
summer meal by the river. An honourable exception is Tom Brown’s Brassiere in
Gunthorpe where you spot water-skiers while sipping your chilled Chardonnay. So
we were intrigued to hear about the opening of Farndon Boathouse last month
which is apparently part-owned by one of the backers of Tom Brown’s.
Formerly
known as The New Ferry Restaurant, the building has undergone a major
redevelopment and refurbishment programme using many natural materials, clad in
wood, with warehouse-style lighting exposing chunky exposed roof trusses, stone
floors and large windows ensuring great river views. We particularly liked the
moody black and white boat-related prints throughout the dining room. Overall,
it’s an impressively slick operation with smartly uniformed staff patrolling
the spacious bar and two dining spaces. And, when the weather holds, there’s a
modern outdoor terrace with raised decking.
We
certainly weren’t the first to hear the buzz on this place – it was packed on
our weekend visit, despite only being open less than a fortnight. The punters
are flocking here for a solid menu of mainly modern British staples. Typical
starters are warm Lincolnshire poacher and three onion tart with tomato relish
(£4.50) and king prawn cocktail (£7), while mains include belly pork, bubble
‘n’ squeak, brown sauce and apple chutney (£11); sausages, creamed potato
puree, red wine & shallot jus with crispy onions (£9) and beer battered
fish, fat chips, marrowfat peas and tartar sauce (£10).
After
kicking off with some fresh baked bread which came with olive oil, balsamic vinegar
and oven roasted whole garlic (£2), my friend opted for one of the few veggie
choices on the main menu: a puff pastry gallette (£8.50). She should have asked
what it was because it turned out, rather disappointingly, to be akin to a
squashed vol-a-vent. Even the accompanying mozzarella, basil, vine tomatoes and
olives couldn’t quite rescue it. Plus she needed a couple of side orders –
seasonal vegetables (£2) and new potatoes (£2) – to beef it up.
Talking of
which, I knew exactly what I expected from the Boat House gourmet burger – for
£11, you want the full monty. Fortunately, I wasn’t disappointed by the
home-cooked rump steak mince blended into a fearsome burger with barn bacon
(locally sourced from ‘over the road at Hardys farm shop’, according to the
menu) plus exquisite mature Long Clawson stilton, in a toasted focaccia bun.
Add in the subtle bitterness of a rocket and chard salad, a super tangy tomato
and chipotle relish, and skinny chips that had been triple fried to make them
extra addictive. All in all, a calorific feast. This meaty masterpiece reminded
us that gourmet burgers are sometimes hard to come by in Notts. Sure, you can
always head for the reliably excellent Delilah deli, but both Ultimate Burger
and Rare sadly closed within a year a while back.
On the
subject of quality meat, this place also seems rather proud of its sausages. According
to the website, Head Chef Dan Garner will be getting together with the renowned
Nottingham butchers J.T. Beedhams to try and
invent ‘a new sausage exclusive to the Boathouse’. Nice one, lads!
Finally,
both of our dessert choices excelled. My lemon tart (£4.50) was a slice of
zestful heaven, especially when teamed with the innovative home-grown rosemary
sorbet. Meanwhile, my friend felt redeemed by the warm Bramley apple and
rhubarb pie (£4.50) which oozed with rich flavours from the thickly-cut chunks
of fresh fruit and sweetened by the generous scoop of creamy vanilla pod ice
cream.
It was a
good way to end a decent, though not inexpensive, meal. And although describing
Farndon, a few miles from Newark,
as a ‘beauty spot’ might be a slight exaggeration, this is a pleasant enough
place to be on a sunny-ish evening. There are also some nature walks around
here if you want to go all Bill Oddie. And sailing types should be aware that
the Farndon Boathouse has its own moorings for three boats (overnight mooring
is free to diners – just call to book ahead). Actually, the nearby Farndon
Marina is surprisingly impressive with dozens of boats on a tranquil 25-acre
site.
So, while
Gunthorpe may well be a prettier stretch of the Trent, Farndon Boathouse clearly has the
potential to give Tom Brown’s a run for its money. Most promisingly of all, the
Boathouse is currently running ‘Sunday Sessions’ of DJs and acoustic music as
the sun sets over the river. From 6pm to 8.30pm, there’s a DJ doing his best
Jose Padilla impression with some chilled-out ambient vibes, then there’s live
acoustic music from local bands: (17th Aug – Urban 2) or (24th Aug – The
Herb Birds). Hey, it may not be quite the Café Del Mar but they’ve got the
right idea. David Sandhu
The Riverside, Farndon, Newark, Mon to Fri noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to
9.30pm, Sat to Sun noon to 3pm and 6pm to 9.30pm. Tel: 01636 676578 www.farndonboathouse.co.uk
Nottingham has
always known how to enjoy itself. The city’s hedonistic nature, first defined
in the groundbreaking 1960s novel Saturday
Night and Sunday Morning, remains alive and well today. Thanks to its huge
student population (one in 12 people living in the city is a full-time student)
and the sheer number of stags and hens flooding into the city centre each
weekend, Nottingham rivals bigger cities like Newcastle
and Dublin in
the good-time stakes. But don’t let that put you off. Away from the maddening
crowds, Nottingham is one of the UK’s most cosmopolitan and stylish cities
(after all, this is where design guru Paul Smith first cut his cloth): its
compact city centre combining a proud history with cutting-edge modernity –
from the world’s oldest pub to super-chic eateries and late-night lounges
attracting national acclaim. In recent years, the
emergence of a buzzing restaurant culture (demonstrated by the city’s first
restaurant awards in 2003) has seen exciting new venues torival the already legendary nightlife. Enjoy!
DON’T MISS…
GOURMET
BRUNCH AT DELILAH DELI
LUNCH
WITH THE CITY’S SLICKERS AT HARTS
INNOVATIVE
COCKTAILS AT THE FUNKY BRASS MONKEY
BAR
DINNER
AT THE AWARD-WINNING WORLD SERVICE
RESTAURANT
AFTER-HOURS
DRINKS AT THE CELEB-FRIENDLY SAINT
BAR
GREAT EATERIES
1. Geisha (3 The Broadway,
Lace Market, Tel: 0115 959 8344. www.geishauk.com)Since opening in 2004, Geishahas raised the bar as Nottingham’s most ambitious destination restaurant.
Offering a dazzling Far East-influenced menu, this top-end venture aims to slim
the wallets of urbane locals with designerdrinking, dining and dancing within a 60-cover restaurant, lounge bar and
basement club. Don’t miss the tempura lobster in creamy curry sauce (recently voted
the UK’s
best curry dish by Restaurant magazine).
2. Alley Café Bar (Cannon Court, Long Row West. Tel: 0115
955 1013). Loved by local veggies, this tiny venue is well worth seeking out.
Dishes like black bean burrito and Tandoori tofu kebabs for under a fiver
ensure it’s constantly busy. Intimate, bohemian and friendly, the bar also hosts
funky evening events like beat poetry slams.
3. Shaw’s (20/22 Broad Street. Tel: 0115 950 0009).Despite being located near the arty
Broadway Cinema, Shaw’s still feels like a ‘find’. Housed over two floors in a
beautiful old industrial building, the antique shop fittings, red lamps, wicker
chairs and comfy sofas create a rather eccentric neighbourhood eaterie.
Genuinely charming and the bistro-style food – from a daily hand-written menu –
is good value.
4. Chino Latino (Maid Marion Way. Tel: 0115 947 7444)There aren’t many places in town you’ll
find dishes like green tea soba noodles, breaded lobster and jalapenos with
coconut rice and lotus seeds. But you can here at this Japanese-South
American fusion restaurant (the chef was recruited from London’s Nobu). Recommended cocktail: Sherwood
Dragon.
5. CAST (Nottingham Playhouse, Wellington Circus. Tel:
0115 852 3898) Designed by award-winning architect Peter Moro (of Royal
Festival Hall fame), Nottingham Playhouse is a listed building. And thanks to a
£1.2 million lottery grant, it now boasts a delicatessen, CAST restaurant (decent
modern European menu) and café bar –overlooking Anish Kapoor’s huge ‘Sky
Mirror’.
6. Hart’s (Standard Court, Park Row. Tel: 0115
911 0666 www.hartsnottingham.co.uk).
While fans (and it has many) believe Hart’s offers the finest kitchen and
smartest service in town, critics find it rather too slick and corporate.
Nevertheless, Hart’s has earned its place in the affections of Nottingham’s cognoscenti since opening in 1997 – the
modern British cuisine has ensured a loyal clientele of lunching solicitors and
affluent diners.
7. World
Service (Newdigate
House, Castle Gate. Tel: 0115 847 5587) A major player in Nottingham’s restaurant
revolution, World Service is housed in a 17th Century building skilfully
converted into a voguish restaurant with a Japanese walled garden. As well
as regaining its ‘Restaurant of the Year’ title at the Nottingham
Restaurant Awards for a third successive year, it continues to garner national
recognition. Signature dishes range from Gressingham duck leg with spicy plum
sauce and roasted cashew nuts to belly pork with roast potato and Bramley apple
sauce.
8. Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms (Old Lenton Lane.
Tel: 0115 986 6566) Proof that Nottingham has arrived
on the UK’s
food scene comes courtesy of talented local chef Sat Bains retained his
Michelin Star (the city’s first and only) at his recently revamped restaurant.
Although located on the outskirts of town (taxi required), the nine-course Menu Degustation (£65 per head) is a
sublime experience – look out for the surreal ham and pea course with liquefied
peas poured from a teapot!
BEST BARS
9. Bluu (5, Broadway. Tel:
0115 950 5359) This large bar is typical of the venues around the regenerated
Lace Market/Hockley area – a minimalist, industrial interior with a basement DJ
bar where Nottingham’s cognoscenti hang out on huge leather sofas.
10.The Dragon (67, Long Row. Tel: 0115 941 7080). This previously
scruffy pub close to the Market
Square has been intelligently renovated into a
comfortable boozer for grown ups. A friendly place for a pint.
11.Brass Monkey (11 High Pavement. Tel: 0115 840 4101). This is where the city’s most
innovative cocktails are served from the long, Manhattan-style bar on High
Pavement, a historic street in the Lace Market that’s now a boozer’s paradise.
12 & 13.Cock & Hoop (27, High Pavement) a real-ale, no smoking enclave
given a stylish makeover by the adjoining Lace Market Hotel (recently earned
acclaim from the Michelin guide). Meanwhile, the cosmopolitan Saint Bar (29, High Pavement), within
the hotel, is an oasis of style and sophistication with a cocktail list (and
prices) to match.
14. Dogma. This ever-popular
bar(9 Byard Lane. Tel: 0115 988 6833)
features a lively basement area that’s loud and lively, especially at weekends.
Flirty and fun.
15.The Social (23 Pelham
Street. Tel: 0115 950 5078). As the northern
outpost of London’s
famous Heavenly Social, this is the hub of the city’s trendy music scene – and
has showcased early performances from major bands including The Strokes and
Coldplay.
16.Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem
(Brew House Yard. Tel: 0115 947 3171). It’s almost compulsory for visitors to
sup at this atmospheric ancient inn (it claims to be the world’s oldest pub and
is reputed to be haunted) carved into the limestone cliffs beneath Nottingham Castle.
COOL SHOPS
17. Gauntleys (Exchange Arcade, Tel: 0115 911
0555, www.gauntleywine.com) Since
1880, Gauntleys has been the place to come for fine wines, spirits and smoking
paraphernalia. With more than 120 types of spirits on offer, the musty cellar
boasts rare vintage cognacs and whiskies and Armagnac
– not to mention 500 different wines. And the expert knowledge of the staff
comes as no surprise because every wine sold is personally tasted at source,
from the cask. Nice work if you can get it, we say…
18. Delilah (15 Middle Pavement.
Tel: 0115 948 4461). My, my, my… this is an epicurean paradise for Notts
foodies selling rare produce such as Spanish Iberico ham. There’s a cosy
communal food bar for tapas-style ‘grazing’ including all-day breakfasts, or
you can nibble free samples of dips, oils and chutneys. From Cropwell Bishop
Stilton (one of 200 cheeses) to Wicked Hathern beers, many products sold are locally
sourced. The try-before-you-buy policy is proving a popular way of educating
the taste-buds of Nottingham’s more
adventurous food shoppers.
19. Victoria Food Market.
Based
on the top floor of the Victoria Shopping Centre, the food court includes a
genuinely retro Italian coffee bar (Aldo’s Café) and one of Nottingham’s
quirky contributions to British cuisine – mushy peas with mint sauce from The
Hot Pea Man stall.
20. Chocolate Utopia (30 Friar Lane. Tel: 0115 947 0016. www.chocolate-utopia.co.uk)WatchBelgian
style chocolates being made the old fashioned way at this new shop dedicated to
the art of confectionary. The Amaretto truffles are particularly irresistible.
HOT HOTELS
21. Lace Market Hotel (29, High Pavement. Tel: 0115 852 3232 www.lacemarkethotel.co.uk) These lovingly
converted Georgian townhouses have undoubtedly been Nottingham’s
hippest address since it opened as a boutique designer hotel in 1999. A pivotal
part of the Lace Market scene, it has hosted many a discerning celebrity – from
pop stars to footballers. Expect charming service, great food (in Merchants,
the hotel’s popular brassiere) and drinks (see 12 & 13), and Aveda goodies in the minimalist bathrooms. Still the place to stay in the city.
Doubles
from £119.
22. Hart’s Hotel (Standard Hill, Park
Row. Tel: 0115 988 1900)Built upon
the success of the eponymous restaurant and Hambleton Hall in Rutland, Hart’s Hotel is quietly cool. The
32-bedroomed boutique hotel stands upon the ramparts of Nottingham’s original
medieval castle and the site of the former Nottingham General
Hospital. Inside, things
are resolutely contemporary – from the minimalist furniture to the Bose
audio-visual gadgetry. Doubles from £120.
Situated
next to Nottingham train station (a few
minute’s walk from the Lace Market), the city’s newest hotel boasts 264
bedrooms, a restaurant and a waterfront bar. Doubles from £69.
24. Park
Plaza Nottingham
(41 Maid Marian Way.
Tel: 0115 947 7200)
While
not as hip as the boutique hotels, the four-star Park Plaza Nottingham offers a
good compromise. Features 178 fully air-conditioned guestrooms, fitness suite
and in-house restaurant – Chino Latino (4).
Doubles from £90.
There
are always little clues that let you know just how much a restaurant cares
about its clientele. Take background music, for example – it may sound trivial
but it can make or break the atmosphere of any venue. At Blenheim House Hotel’s
new brassiere, the state-of-the-art soundsystem plays a gentle selection of
chill-out tunes – it perfectly suits the intimate dining room of this mixed
18th and 19th Century building in the heart of the pretty village of
Etwall, a few miles from Derby. In other words, this is a restaurant that takes
the details seriously, somewhere that really bothers about its paying punters.
This
first impression was soon confirmed by our meal at the hotel’s new brassiere
that has recently opened to complement its exclusive 20-cover restaurant. The new
dining space has an intimate and welcoming feel – rich red carpets, creamy
walls that showcase some impressive abstract paintings (Blenheim House exhibits
the work of local artists) and smart brown and taupe high-backed chairs. With
clever lighting and the intelligent soundtrack, this is undoubtedly a class
act.
Scouring
the wide-ranging menu, the choice included Modern British (black pudding, pancetta
and packed egg salad); Italian (tagliatelle of asparagus, wild mushrooms,
sun-blushed tomatoes, roasted pine nuts and basil leaves); and local produce
like Derbyshire country sausages and mash with red onion gravy.
After a marvellous munch of olive bread, we opted for a starter of
grilled goats cheese beetroot salad and sauce vierge (£4.95) followed by Thai
fish cakes with sweet chilli sauce (£9.95). Other tempting main courses included
roasted shank of Derbyshire lamb, horseradish mash, salad of mixed vegetables,
and thyme jus (£14.50), battered cod and chunky chips, mushy peas and tartar
sauce (£10.95), and maize-fed
chicken breast with red pepper, asparagus and tomato pappardelle (£12.95). At lunch-time, a range of gourmet sandwiches is also
available – including brie, pear and watercress on tasted ciabatta (£3.95); and
pan-fried chicken lemon mayo and mixed leaves (£5.95) – served with salad, olives
and fries. A bargain deal, surely?
Everything about our meal was exemplary. From the
melt-in-the-mouth creaminess of the goats cheese complemented perfectly by the
beetroot salad, to the more than generous portion of spicy Thai fishcakes that
tasted fresh from the frying pan. Our accompanying bottle of Argentine
Sauvignon Blanc (£13.95) was suitably clean and crisp and the side order of
Belgium fries (those home-cooked long, thin ones) for £1.95 didn’t disappoint
either. Finally, the pudding of rich chocolate truffle with raspberry coulis
was sensationally smooth and decadently delicious. Overall, this was premier
league comfort food – ideal for a chilly autumnal night.
Formerly the village pub, Blenheim House was elegantly refurbished
to create a stylish country hotel, pub, restaurant, brassiere and
wedding/conference venue. There are 10 bedrooms, each with their own individual
design, decorated in opulent style – including two four poster suites for the
ultimate in romping pleasure. According to the hotel itself: “the bedrooms
smell of beeswax and Crabtree & Evelyn. Mulberry fabrics. Goose down
pillows and duvets with Egyptian cotton slips. Where nothing is too much
trouble.”
Based upon our experience of their excellent brassiere, it might be worth considering Blenheim for a special occasion. And, for business travellers, local gourmands or discerning day-trippers exploring the rugged countryside of Derbyshire and Staffordshire, Blenheim House makes a great stopover for lunch or dinner. As proprietor Peter Simpson explains of his restaurant: “We opened the Blenheim House to provide a context for our passion, simple, quality food with flavours that shine.” There’s no arguing with that. Blenheim House is pure quality.
Blenheim House, Main Street, Etwall, Derbyshire, lunch served Mon to Sat noon to 2.30pm and Sun noon to 3pm, dinner served in the brassiere Mon to Sat 6pm to 9.30pm, restaurant 7pm to 9.30pm, closed Sun eve. Tel: 01283 732254.
It’s
all too easy to take places like Wagamama for granted. Since the groundbreaking basement noodle
canteen opened in Bloomsbury back in the early
Nineties, its Zen-like devotion to healthy eating has become an international
phenomenon. And, when the Nottingham branch
opened in April 2001 as part of the Cornerhouse complex,
the 110-seater canteen was an immediate success: its huge, street-facing
windows revealing row upon row of noodle-slurping devotees most nights.
Modelled
on Japanese ramen bars, it’s amazing how normal the whole Wagamama thing seems
today – the meet-your-neighbour bench seating, the scribbling of orders on
place mats, the healthy eating ethos (‘positive eating + positive living’)…
We’re so used to it all now.
UK Wagamama branches serve the same menu: rice
plate meals and Japanese ramen, soba and udon noodles, cooked teppanyaki-style
on a flat griddle or simmered in huge, steaming bowls of spicy soup. All served
super-quickly and efficiently. It’s a culinary concept which has been widely
imitated, but rarely beaten.
But
even the most successful of menus needs an occasional remix – so Wagamama have
gone big on salads for their latest summer offering. There are five new salad
dishes up for grabs, including cumin chicken (£8.25), prawn noodle (£8.25) and
warm scallop and bacon (£8.95).
We
went for the other two combinations: smoked salmon (£8.95) and mushroom,
asparagus and tofu (£7.75). With a forest of mixed leaves, avocado, peppers and
spring onion, my smoked salmon salad might sound a bit worthy and dull – but
far from it: the decent portion of lightly smoked shredded fish was totally
enlivened by a genius-like combination of wasabi and miso dressing. Meanwhile,
my friend’s tofu and wild mushrooms were tossed through a salad of soba
noodles, asparagus, pepper and red onion – again, the dressing rocked: a
subtle, tangy mustard.
Of
course, we also supplemented the meal with a selection of Wagamama’s fabulous
side-order options. The ebi gyoza (£4.95), five prawn and vegetable dumplings,
are almost worth it for the spicy citrus ponzu dipping sauce alone – however,
I’ve never understood why Wagamama feel the need to deep fry them when they’re
much tastier pan-fried or boiled. No such complaints about our other side
dishes – you really can’t go wrong with edamame (£3.50), the fresh
pop-in-your-mouth soya beans flavoured with chill and garlic salt, and
immaculately crunchy grilled asparagus (£4.10) lightly coated in a citrus
yakitori sauce and garnished with sesame seeds.
All
of this virtuous loveliness was accompanied by two of Wagamama’s legendary
fresh juices (somehow, you can’t help being healthy here): carrot (£3.95,
large) which zinged with ginger; and raw juice (£2.95, small) boasting the
virtuousness of carrot, cucumber, tomato, orange and apple.
Even
the desserts have a wholesome edge – from the mango with lime zest and lychee
sorbet (£3) to the tamarind and chilli pavlova (£4.50) and coconut reika
(£3.10). We opted to take away a couple of natural fruit ice lollies (£1.50
each) – watermelon and raspberry flavours – to indulge ourselves in the fading
sunshine. A cool way to round off a spirit-enhancing meal…
Actually,
it’s a shame this branch hasn’t got any alfresco space, because their revised menu is ideal for long, hot summer days and
nights. But, while overall enjoyment requires some tolerance of the often
cramped canteen-style dining experience, its high-quality ingredients and smooth-running
style still make this a cut above most high street chain restaurants. Plus you
can usually count on change from fifty quid here. Wagamama’s ‘way
of the noodle’ philosophy remains as relevant as ever. David Sandhu
The heat was on and Nottingham sizzled like downtown Athens. So what better
excuse for Metro to sample one of the
city’s newest Greek restaurants? Or should that be one of the city’s only Greek
restaurants.We’re not exactly blessed with an abundance of Greek food
in these parts. In fact, the only other place to immediately spring to mind is
Eviva Taverna. Now based on Barker Gate, it’s been the place to smash a few plates ever since 1973 when it claimed to
be the first Greek restaurant in the entire Midlands.
So unlike most other cuisines, Greek food doesn’t seem to have
really taken off in Notts. That’s why we were genuinely excited by the news of
Yamas which opened earlier this spring in the unpromising location of Thurland Street,
tucked well away from trendy Pelham
Street. Although Yamas bills itself as a
Mediterranean tapas restaurant, the emphasis is firmly Grecian.
Word must have got around quickly: On a steamy Monday evening, the
place looked full to bursting (although we subsequently learned that the
upstairs dining room was closed). Even more encouragingly, the clientele
comprised students (who can always sniff out a bargain) and Mediterranean
family groups (surely a good sign of the food’s authenticity?).
Nobody was here for the interiors, though – a bland mish-mash of
dull paintings and furniture. Or the view – the litter-strewn pavement outside
New Look and the occasional passing hoodie. So let’s just say this might not be
ideal first date territory.
Fortunately, the owner/manager (who apparently also owns the
Dionysus restaurant in Arnold)
is everything you’d want from any neighbourhood taverna – an avuncular Greek
geezer, straight out of central casting, who roams the room checking the
welfare of his customers. If only all restaurants boasted someone with this
kind of passion and enthusiasm for their business… Top bloke.
Despite the prosaic surroundings, Yamas was growing on us,
especially as the ice-cold Greek lagers (Mythos and Yeo – both £2.80 a bottle)
worked their magic. Imagining ourselves back to the days of Greek
island-hopping and the tavernas of Ios, Rhodes or Naxos,
even the lengthy wait to be served seemed authentic. That’s how chilled we
were.
We were delighted that Greek dishes dominate the Yamas menu. After
all, there are more than enough Italian and Mediterranean
tapas places elsewhere in NG1. Dishes from a solid selection span traditional
taverna favourites such as moussaka (£4.85), dolmades (£3.95) and chicken
souvlaki (£4.45) to less well-known options such as Stifado (beef casserole –
£4.95) or Kefethes (Greek-style meatballs – £3.45). Several pasta dishes and
non-Greek dishes are also available.
Although the menu also claims that “cold dishes will be served
first,” all our chosen dishes (hot and cold) arrived together. By the time this
bacchanalian feast finally arrived, we were almost ready to eat the cutlery.
Again, the charm of our ebullient host smoothed the way.
We stuck mainly with Greek classics. In no particular order, our
main picks were Greek Salad (£3.95), Kalamari (£4.50), aubergines and zucchini
(£4.50), Yemista (£2.95), and Spanakopitta (£2.95).
Typical Greek flavours of oregano, mint and
garlic set the tone. The slices of
aubergine and courgette were perfectly fried in olive oil and felt effortlessly
healthy. The Yemista comprised of two peppers stuffed with rice and a
sprinkling of pine kernels and raisins which was nicely cooked but lacked any
robust taste. The Greek salad was fresh if a little too fussy, (and certainly
not one for the purists, as it contained rocket leaves). And the Spanakopitta (a
familiar staple of those endless Greek ferry crossings) was an enjoyable blast
from the past with feta cheese and spinach wrapped in crispy filo pastry.
But best of the lot was the kalamari, deep-fried rings of squid in
a light golden batter – they only need a squirt of fresh lemon juice to create
a sensational summer taste.
Alongside
these dishes, the side-orders of Tirokafteri dip (£2.95) and Greek round bread
(£1.95) were also hits. This spicy cheese dip, a wicked blend of cream and feta
cheeses infused by a hit of chilli, worked well with the rustic bread. So we
were glad we didn’t opt for the obvious choices of houmous, taramosalata, or
tzatziki dips (perhaps next time…)
For
some extra carbs, we went for the very non-Greek Patatas Bravas (£3.65) which
turned out to be new potatoes (rather than the usual fried version) in a
familiarly fiery tomato salsa.
Finally, we shared a dessert of Baklava (£2.95),
layers of filo pastry with chopped almonds and delicious drizzle of honey
syrup. Accompanied by a strong Greek coffee (£1.50) and a Glykaniso (£1.75),
green tea with an aniseed twist, this was a satisfyingly sweet way to conclude
matters.
The bill (for two with moderate booze) was one of the nicest surprises of all – just below the suitably mythic £50 mark. So, while Yamas isn’t the most glamorous place in town, it offers decent Greek cuisine at superb value which has got to be good news. By the way, “yamas” is Greek for “Our health” or “cheers”. And that says it all…
Fancy a night out in Burton Joyce? Not a phrase you hear everyday, is it?
After all, this pleasant residential area to the east of Nottingham
is neither a suburb or a village – it’s a something in-between. And, if you
think it sounds dull, that’s your prerogative.
But the good news is that NG14 now has a gastro pub to rival the best in
Notts. Tucked off the main road near the church and railway line, the
former Famous Lord Nelson pub was, until last summer, an inconspicuous place –
with Mild on tap and meals served in a quaint olde worlde lounge bar.
Now the newly
rebranded Lord Nelson is a smart country boozer with a nod to urban
sophistication. And while we could have lived without Sky Sports
blasting from the large screens, overall first
impressions were that the new owners have done a professional job. So we
weren’t surprised to learn that the Moleface
Pub Company, the team behind the refurbished Larwood
& Voce at Trent
Bridge, is behind this
new venture. Last summer, we admired the hearty fare (particularly steaks) at
L&V – although we were less convinced by its interiors and disappointed by
the lack of cricket memorabilia, given its heritage.
So have they
gone one better here? By installing the Notts Young Chef of the Year Nichola Thompson (recognised for
her talent at June’s Nottingham Restaurant Awards) as their head chef, it’s
certainly a promising start.
As we entered the moderately crowded pub on a Saturday night, the
‘maturity’ of the punters was noticeable. The silver surfers were certainly out
in force – perhaps they’re the only ones who can afford (or think they can
afford) a decent meal out these days?
After initially being
given ‘the duff table’ (you know the one – perched awkwardly near the fire exit
with no room for anyone to get past), a kindly waitress took pity and moved us
to a far more comfortable booth.
As we sipped on nicely
chilled ‘Head over Heels’ rosé (£5.35 for a large glass), we considered the
no-nonsense menu of Modern British-dominated pub grub with an old-school slant.
From starters of local pigeon on toast (£6) and seriously retro ‘half pint o’
prawn cocktail’ (£5.50) to mains of grilled sirloin and chips in dripping and
horseradish (£19.95) and pork belly with baked red onion and apple sauce (£12.50),
it was great to see that many main ingredients, especially the meat, were
sourced locally with their provenance listed on the menu.
We kicked off with the
seafood ‘thermidor’ (£7.50) and mozzarella and tomato salad (£5.50) – both of
which were excellent. My friend loved the garlicky creaminess of her
thermidor-inspired dish of king scallops and prawns with spinach. Meanwhile, my
mozzarella was the real deal: the proper Buffalo variety so loved by Jamie
Olivier types, with fresh yellow vine tomatoes – the taste and texture of the
melt in the mouth cheese and firm, juicy tomatoes was a killer combination (it
also felt virtuously healthy, although there’s probably as much fat here as a
Big Mac).
Next up, our mains of
vegetable tart (£11.50) and grilled whole plaice (£12.95) kept up the high
standards. In particular, the expertly grilled plaice was a real highlight – a
generously large portion of delicate white fish given a deft, salty twist by
strips of smoked bacon, plus a tangy bite of baby capers and cherry tomatoes.
The roasted vegetable tart didn’t let the kitchen down, either. Again, it was a
decent size and featured some obviously homemade pastry and strong flavours of
goats’ cheese and basil leading the way. Our shared side order of delicious new
potatoes (£2.50) added a few essential carbs.
We’d already enjoyed a
sublime meal. And the good times continued with desserts as we succumbed to the
siren’s call of a selection of ‘Lord Nelson favourite puds in miniature’ (£10
for two people) – like a box of Celebrations, but better. Only a fool would
resist the chance to try as many desserts as it’s possible to fit on a plate: a
comforting sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce, a decadent white chocolate
cheesecake and fresh strawberries and a subtle-flavoured summer berry and
elderflower jelly. Best of all was the life-affirmingly rich warm strawberry
and almond tart.
Perhaps it was the port
talking (Barros ruby at £2 for 50ml), but we reckoned that every man (and woman)
has done their duty here at The Lord Nelson – especially Nichola Thompson, who, at only
21, is a talent to watch.
If you’re a credit crunch
worrier, it might be an idea to take advantage of the special Monday to
Wednesday deal: two courses for £13.95 and three courses for £16.95.
The new owners have said they
want the Lord Nelson to be part of
Burton Joyce – ‘a local pub for local people’ which all sounds a bit Royston
Vasey. But don’t be put off – for the rest of us, the
food at the Lord Nelson is still definitely
worth the trip along the A612. David Sandhu
The
Lord Nelson, Chestnut Grove, Burton
Joyce NG14 5DN. Tel: 01159 311 800. Dinner served from 5.30pm to 9pm
(Mon-Thurs) and 5.30pm to 10pm (Fri & Sat).
Just down the road from well-heeled Southwell, the Waggon & Horses has been building a reputation for quality food for several years now. And, with a brand new menu and the recent accolade of ‘2006 Dining Pub of the Year Nottinghamshire’ in the Good Pub Guide, it didn’t take much to persuade us to pay our first visit.
This
relatively small pub lies on the main road through the village of Halam.
On a humid autumn evening, we would have liked to have gone alfresco but the
few outside tables were right by the road. It’s a traditional boozer – the
building dates back 1762 – all timbered beams, green wellies and red-cheeked
country folk. You certainly know you’re in Middle England here.
With
an impressive turnout for a Wednesday, it was quite hot and cramped inside
(this would probably feel cosy on a winter’s day, though). You also have to
fight your way to the bar before being seated. We were led to a small, rather
uncomfortable, ill-fitting wooden table in the corner – and the oppressive
exposed brick and red walls weren’t doing much for our mood either (although
the Victorian cricket portraits are a nice touch).
To
live up to its billing as one of the best gastro pubs in Notts, the food would
have to be something special. We soon found out that it was…
Although
I was tempted by a pint of ale (after all, the hand
pulled beers here are from the Daniel Thwaites brewery of Lancashire, the UK’s largest family
run brewery). However, the excellent menu looked like it would better suit a
glass of white – so we glugged large glasses (250ml) of Australian Deakin
Estate Sauvignon Blanc (£4.75 each). That menu was a mouth-watering prospect of
simple, well-considered dishes: starters including pan-fried pigeon breast,
Quince and onion marmalade and dressed rocket (£6), and smoked goose breast
with pear and walnut salad (£7); mains of glazed duck breast, roast beetroot
and onions (£13), and buttered roast fennel and mushroom risotto (£11).
Our starter choices were the slow-cooked vegetable soup (£4.50)
and stilton and leek potato cake (£6). It was a promising start – the soup was
a steamy autumnal stew of root vegetables, predominantly parsnip, topped with a
creamy brie crouton. Meanwhile, the potato cake was a melting mixture of rich
stilton and juicy leeks given an exquisite twist of textures by the
accompanying chunky tomato salsa which added crunch and coolness to the
yielding softness of the warm, fluffy potato.
You’d be a fool to miss the blackboard specials here. In fact, we
chose both of our mains from the list – a seabass fillet (£13) and baked salmon
(£12) – and weren’t disappointed. My friend’s salmon was a generous portion of
fish on a bed of asparagus, tomato and spinach – this expertly cooked fish was
succulent and well balanced by the vegetables. I was equally delighted by my
seabass that came pan-fried with an inspired seasonal sauce of pumpkin and
spring onion. The soft white flesh was enlivened by the sweetness of the
pumpkin and given extra punch by the sharper-tasting dressing of dill and
mustard.
All
the portions were a good size. Not to mention the huge bamboo container of steamed
vegetables (courgettes, carrots, potatoes and green beans) plus a bowl of truly
irresistible thinly sliced crispy fried potatoes.
Our
desserts were fabulous, too. The gin & tonic sorbet sounded intriguing but
I was pleased not to miss out on the dark chocolate and Griottine cherry crème
brulee (£5), a sinfully smooth concoction of pure pleasure – the bitter-sweet flavours
of the whole cherries blending perfectly with the strong chocolate. A similar
combination of tastes – wild cherry and dark chocolate ice cream (£5 for two scoops)
–– also worked wonders for my dining companion.
We’re not
surprised that the Waggon & Horses has won so many plaudits. Head chef and
co-owner Roy Wood (no, not that one!) keeps the cooking admirably simple and the
non-smoking policy throughout the bar and restaurant
is another smart move. This is pub grub taken to a higher level. David Sandhu
The Waggon and
Horses, The Turnpike, Halam, Nottinghamshire. Tel: 01636 813109. Open for meals
Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6-9.30pm and Sun 12-3pm.
Several
Thai restaurants have opened their doors in recent years, but nothing quite as
hot as Tarn Thai which sizzled into the city’s culinary consciousness earlier
this summer. Located on George
Street in the heart of the Hockley action, this modern,
purpose-built building has had a fair amount of cash lavished on it – creating
a well-lit and contemporary space, complete with trendy water features. The
traditional Thai hospitality extends to a warm welcome, attentive service and
friendly smiles all round. But it’s the authentic food that really sets this
place apart – from the usual standard dishes to a few interesting innovations,
there are some excellent choices. We particularly enjoyed the grilled selection
of dishes that really taste like they’ve come straight off a charcoal barbecue.
The chef certainly seems to know exactly what he’s doing and prices overall are
fairly reasonable given both the setting and quality. With Nottingham’s Thai
restaurant scene in better shape than ever before, Tarn Thai is right up there
with the very best the city has to offer in ethnic cuisine. Let’s hope it can
maintain such high standards for many years to come… DS
Tarn Thai,9 George Street, Nottingham,
daily noon to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm. Tel: 0115 959 9454
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