***** (Five stars)
Fancy a night out in Burton Joyce? Not a phrase you hear everyday, is it? After all, this pleasant residential area to the east of Nottingham is neither a suburb or a village – it’s a something in-between. And, if you think it sounds dull, that’s your prerogative.
But the good news is that NG14 now has a gastro pub to rival the best in Notts. Tucked off the main road near the church and railway line, the former Famous Lord Nelson pub was, until last summer, an inconspicuous place – with Mild on tap and meals served in a quaint olde worlde lounge bar.
Now the newly rebranded Lord Nelson is a smart country boozer with a nod to urban sophistication. And while we could have lived without Sky Sports blasting from the large screens, overall first impressions were that the new owners have done a professional job. So we weren’t surprised to learn that the Moleface Pub Company, the team behind the refurbished Larwood & Voce at Trent Bridge, is behind this new venture. Last summer, we admired the hearty fare (particularly steaks) at L&V – although we were less convinced by its interiors and disappointed by the lack of cricket memorabilia, given its heritage.
So have they gone one better here? By installing the Notts Young Chef of the Year Nichola Thompson (recognised for her talent at June’s Nottingham Restaurant Awards) as their head chef, it’s certainly a promising start.
As we entered the moderately crowded pub on a Saturday night, the ‘maturity’ of the punters was noticeable. The silver surfers were certainly out in force – perhaps they’re the only ones who can afford (or think they can afford) a decent meal out these days?
After initially being given ‘the duff table’ (you know the one – perched awkwardly near the fire exit with no room for anyone to get past), a kindly waitress took pity and moved us to a far more comfortable booth.
As we sipped on nicely chilled ‘Head over Heels’ rosé (£5.35 for a large glass), we considered the no-nonsense menu of Modern British-dominated pub grub with an old-school slant. From starters of local pigeon on toast (£6) and seriously retro ‘half pint o’ prawn cocktail’ (£5.50) to mains of grilled sirloin and chips in dripping and horseradish (£19.95) and pork belly with baked red onion and apple sauce (£12.50), it was great to see that many main ingredients, especially the meat, were sourced locally with their provenance listed on the menu.
We kicked off with the seafood ‘thermidor’ (£7.50) and mozzarella and tomato salad (£5.50) – both of which were excellent. My friend loved the garlicky creaminess of her thermidor-inspired dish of king scallops and prawns with spinach. Meanwhile, my mozzarella was the real deal: the proper Buffalo variety so loved by Jamie Olivier types, with fresh yellow vine tomatoes – the taste and texture of the melt in the mouth cheese and firm, juicy tomatoes was a killer combination (it also felt virtuously healthy, although there’s probably as much fat here as a Big Mac).
Next up, our mains of vegetable tart (£11.50) and grilled whole plaice (£12.95) kept up the high standards. In particular, the expertly grilled plaice was a real highlight – a generously large portion of delicate white fish given a deft, salty twist by strips of smoked bacon, plus a tangy bite of baby capers and cherry tomatoes. The roasted vegetable tart didn’t let the kitchen down, either. Again, it was a decent size and featured some obviously homemade pastry and strong flavours of goats’ cheese and basil leading the way. Our shared side order of delicious new potatoes (£2.50) added a few essential carbs.
We’d already enjoyed a sublime meal. And the good times continued with desserts as we succumbed to the siren’s call of a selection of ‘Lord Nelson favourite puds in miniature’ (£10 for two people) – like a box of Celebrations, but better. Only a fool would resist the chance to try as many desserts as it’s possible to fit on a plate: a comforting sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce, a decadent white chocolate cheesecake and fresh strawberries and a subtle-flavoured summer berry and elderflower jelly. Best of all was the life-affirmingly rich warm strawberry and almond tart.
Perhaps it was the port talking (Barros ruby at £2 for 50ml), but we reckoned that every man (and woman) has done their duty here at The Lord Nelson – especially Nichola Thompson, who, at only 21, is a talent to watch.
If you’re a credit crunch worrier, it might be an idea to take advantage of the special Monday to Wednesday deal: two courses for £13.95 and three courses for £16.95.
The new owners have said they want the Lord Nelson to be part of Burton Joyce – ‘a local pub for local people’ which all sounds a bit Royston Vasey. But don’t be put off – for the rest of us, the food at the Lord Nelson is still definitely worth the trip along the A612. David Sandhu
The Lord Nelson, Chestnut Grove, Burton Joyce NG14 5DN. Tel: 01159 311 800. Dinner served from 5.30pm to 9pm (Mon-Thurs) and 5.30pm to 10pm (Fri & Sat).