This lot make it look easy. With British boozers supposedly under increasing threat, the Moleface Pub Company, a small local chain, are fast gaining a reputation for taking rather unloved local pubs and turning them into the kind of gastro pubs we’d all like around our way. They’ve already transformed both the Larwood and Voce at Trent Bridge and, more recently, The Lord Nelson in Burton Joyce. Metro was impressed by both – particularly the culinary flair at the latter – so we wondered whether they could make it a hat-trick in NG8, down the road from lovely Wollaton Park?
The Wollaton was formerly The Willoughby Arms, one of those cavernous suburban pubs which you drive past pondering why you’d ever visit: none of the buzz of an urban venue or the charm of a country boozer. But a £400,000 refurb has almost achieved the impossible – creating a trendy, open-plan space in such a humdrum setting.
Locals will hardly recognise the place. The dining area now has a plush, grown-up feel – a modern take on Victorian aesthetics with plum drapes and dark woods, turn-of-the-century artwork and subdued lighting from the chandeliers. And we’ll let you discover the weird wallpaper in the loos for yourself. We liked it a lot.
They like to play it simple here – even the menu is just one side of an A4 sheet. And it couldn’t be more British, and there’s more than a hint of that Victorian influence again in some of the dishes on offer. From the black pudding scotch egg starter (£4.50) to the main course of roast rack of lamb from the Belvoir Estate with new potatoes and minted greens (£29.95 for two) and a vanilla rice pudding with stewed fruits (£5), this is seriously old-school with a modern twist.
After some delicious home-baked granary bread and large glasses of Touraine Sauvignon Blanc (£5.65) and Torrelongares Rose (£4.75), we opted for two classic starters. My friend’s pear, walnut and Cropwell Stilton salad (£5) was exquisite: quality ingredients, elegantly arranged, which livened the palate with its freshness – and, of course, that local Stilton is something to be proud of. Meanwhile, my cured salmon (£5.50) was also outstanding – three perfect slices of salmon given a rich, full flavour by the accompanying Norfolk crab, tomato and avocado.
Our mains continued along the fish route. My bream (£10.50) was a further delight – a pan-fried fillet teamed with parsley new potatoes and given a lively kick by a zingy caper and beetroot relish. And my friend’s salmon (£11.50) also didn’t disappoint either: a generous portion, poached then drizzled in hollandaise, with tasty purple sprouting broccoli and bashed potatoes.
Finally, we shared a Wollaton sherry trifle (£5). This wasn’t quite as great as the rest of the meal – served in a long glass, it tasted too sugary and industrial and not as boozy as we might have hoped. We regretted missing the warm Bakewell tart with Blackmore Farm clotted cream (£5).
The Wollaton is a huge space. With dining not restricted to the restaurant area, there’s over 150 covers here. On our Saturday night visit it was reassuringly busy, but not rowdy. The large open kitchen also offers a sense of theatre.
So this is undoubtedly a promising start for The Wollaton. It certainly deserves to be a third success for the Moleface Pub Company. The service was among the quickest and most efficient we’ve experienced. At around £60 for two (and even less earlier in the day when there’s tempting deals, plus deli and tapas options), it’s also good value. The huge outdoors area will also come in very handy for some al fresco action as the sun starts to shine. There’s even talk of converting some of the outdoor space into a mini small holding with pigs and chickens. It all fits in with their admirable ethos of sourcing local produce. How hard can this restaurant lark really be? David Sandhu
The Wollaton, Lambourne Drive, Wollaton, Nottingham NG8 1GR
Tel: 0115 928 8610, www.thewollaton.co.uk
