Author: David Sandhu

David Sandhu is an award-winning copywriter and marketing consultant who implicitly understands the food and drink sector. He was previously a restaurant reviewer for The Independent, The Sunday Telegraph, Metro, Time Out, Olive, and Food & Travel magazine – as well as a judge at the Nottingham Restaurant Awards, Heart FM Awards and The Great British Menu (BBC2).

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BLENHEIM HOUSE

There are always little clues that let you know just how much a restaurant cares about its clientele. Take background music, for example – it may sound trivial but it can make or break the atmosphere of any venue. At Blenheim House Hotel’s new brassiere, the state-of-the-art soundsystem plays a gentle selection of chill-out tunes – it perfectly suits the intimate dining room of this mixed 18th and 19th Century building in the heart of the pretty village of Etwall, a few miles from Derby. In other words, this is a restaurant that takes the details seriously, somewhere that really bothers about its paying punters.

This first impression was soon confirmed by our meal at the hotel’s new brassiere that has recently opened to complement its exclusive 20-cover restaurant.  The new dining space has an intimate and welcoming feel – rich red carpets, creamy walls that showcase some impressive abstract paintings (Blenheim House exhibits the work of local artists) and smart brown and taupe high-backed chairs. With clever lighting and the intelligent soundtrack, this is undoubtedly a class act.

Scouring the wide-ranging menu, the choice included Modern British (black pudding, pancetta and packed egg salad); Italian (tagliatelle of asparagus, wild mushrooms, sun-blushed tomatoes, roasted pine nuts and basil leaves); and local produce like Derbyshire country sausages and mash with red onion gravy.

After a marvellous munch of olive bread, we opted for a starter of grilled goats cheese beetroot salad and sauce vierge (£4.95) followed by Thai fish cakes with sweet chilli sauce (£9.95). Other tempting main courses included roasted shank of Derbyshire lamb, horseradish mash, salad of mixed vegetables, and thyme jus (£14.50), battered cod and chunky chips, mushy peas and tartar sauce (£10.95), and maize-fed chicken breast with red pepper, asparagus and tomato pappardelle (£12.95). At lunch-time, a range of gourmet sandwiches is also available – including brie, pear and watercress on tasted ciabatta (£3.95); and pan-fried chicken lemon mayo and mixed leaves (£5.95) – served with salad, olives and fries. A bargain deal, surely?

Everything about our meal was exemplary. From the melt-in-the-mouth creaminess of the goats cheese complemented perfectly by the beetroot salad, to the more than generous portion of spicy Thai fishcakes that tasted fresh from the frying pan. Our accompanying bottle of Argentine Sauvignon Blanc (£13.95) was suitably clean and crisp and the side order of Belgium fries (those home-cooked long, thin ones) for £1.95 didn’t disappoint either. Finally, the pudding of rich chocolate truffle with raspberry coulis was sensationally smooth and decadently delicious. Overall, this was premier league comfort food – ideal for a chilly autumnal night.

Formerly the village pub, Blenheim House was elegantly refurbished to create a stylish country hotel, pub, restaurant, brassiere and wedding/conference venue. There are 10 bedrooms, each with their own individual design, decorated in opulent style – including two four poster suites for the ultimate in romping pleasure. According to the hotel itself: “the bedrooms smell of beeswax and Crabtree & Evelyn. Mulberry fabrics. Goose down pillows and duvets with Egyptian cotton slips. Where nothing is too much trouble.”

Based upon our experience of their excellent brassiere, it might be worth considering Blenheim for a special occasion. And, for business travellers, local gourmands or discerning day-trippers exploring the rugged countryside of Derbyshire and Staffordshire, Blenheim House makes a great stopover for lunch or dinner. As proprietor Peter Simpson explains of his restaurant: “We opened the Blenheim House to provide a context for our passion, simple, quality food with flavours that shine.” There’s no arguing with that. Blenheim House is pure quality.

Blenheim House, Main Street, Etwall, Derbyshire, lunch served Mon to Sat noon to 2.30pm and Sun noon to 3pm, dinner served in the brassiere Mon to Sat 6pm to 9.30pm, restaurant 7pm to 9.30pm, closed Sun eve. Tel: 01283 732254.

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WAGAMAMA

It’s all too easy to take places like Wagamama for granted. Since the groundbreaking basement noodle canteen opened in Bloomsbury back in the early Nineties, its Zen-like devotion to healthy eating has become an international phenomenon. And, when the Nottingham branch opened in April 2001 as part of the Cornerhouse complex, the 110-seater canteen was an immediate success: its huge, street-facing windows revealing row upon row of noodle-slurping devotees most nights.

Modelled on Japanese ramen bars, it’s amazing how normal the whole Wagamama thing seems today – the meet-your-neighbour bench seating, the scribbling of orders on place mats, the healthy eating ethos (‘positive eating + positive living’)… We’re so used to it all now.

UK Wagamama branches serve the same menu: rice plate meals and Japanese ramen, soba and udon noodles, cooked teppanyaki-style on a flat griddle or simmered in huge, steaming bowls of spicy soup. All served super-quickly and efficiently. It’s a culinary concept which has been widely imitated, but rarely beaten.

But even the most successful of menus needs an occasional remix – so Wagamama have gone big on salads for their latest summer offering. There are five new salad dishes up for grabs, including cumin chicken (£8.25), prawn noodle (£8.25) and warm scallop and bacon (£8.95).

We went for the other two combinations: smoked salmon (£8.95) and mushroom, asparagus and tofu (£7.75). With a forest of mixed leaves, avocado, peppers and spring onion, my smoked salmon salad might sound a bit worthy and dull – but far from it: the decent portion of lightly smoked shredded fish was totally enlivened by a genius-like combination of wasabi and miso dressing. Meanwhile, my friend’s tofu and wild mushrooms were tossed through a salad of soba noodles, asparagus, pepper and red onion – again, the dressing rocked: a subtle, tangy mustard.

Of course, we also supplemented the meal with a selection of Wagamama’s fabulous side-order options. The ebi gyoza (£4.95), five prawn and vegetable dumplings, are almost worth it for the spicy citrus ponzu dipping sauce alone – however, I’ve never understood why Wagamama feel the need to deep fry them when they’re much tastier pan-fried or boiled. No such complaints about our other side dishes – you really can’t go wrong with edamame (£3.50), the fresh pop-in-your-mouth soya beans flavoured with chill and garlic salt, and immaculately crunchy grilled asparagus (£4.10) lightly coated in a citrus yakitori sauce and garnished with sesame seeds.

All of this virtuous loveliness was accompanied by two of Wagamama’s legendary fresh juices (somehow, you can’t help being healthy here): carrot (£3.95, large) which zinged with ginger; and raw juice (£2.95, small) boasting the virtuousness of carrot, cucumber, tomato, orange and apple.

Even the desserts have a wholesome edge – from the mango with lime zest and lychee sorbet (£3) to the tamarind and chilli pavlova (£4.50) and coconut reika (£3.10). We opted to take away a couple of natural fruit ice lollies (£1.50 each) – watermelon and raspberry flavours – to indulge ourselves in the fading sunshine. A cool way to round off a spirit-enhancing meal…

Actually, it’s a shame this branch hasn’t got any alfresco space, because their revised menu is ideal for long, hot summer days and nights. But, while overall enjoyment requires some tolerance of the often cramped canteen-style dining experience, its high-quality ingredients and smooth-running style still make this a cut above most high street chain restaurants. Plus you can usually count on change from fifty quid here. Wagamama’s ‘way of the noodle’ philosophy remains as relevant as ever. David Sandhu

Meal for two with wine: £48

Wagamama, The Cornerhouse, Burton street, Nottingham. Tel: (0115) 924 1797.Open Mon-Sat: 12-11pm; Sun: 12-10pm.

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YAMAS

Greece is the word at Yamas

The heat was on and Nottingham sizzled like downtown Athens. So what better excuse for Metro to sample one of the city’s newest Greek restaurants? Or should that be one of the city’s only Greek restaurants.We’re not exactly blessed with an abundance of Greek food in these parts. In fact, the only other place to immediately spring to mind is Eviva Taverna. Now based on Barker Gate, it’s been the place to smash a few plates ever since 1973 when it claimed to be the first Greek restaurant in the entire Midlands.

So unlike most other cuisines, Greek food doesn’t seem to have really taken off in Notts. That’s why we were genuinely excited by the news of Yamas which opened earlier this spring in the unpromising location of Thurland Street, tucked well away from trendy Pelham Street. Although Yamas bills itself as a Mediterranean tapas restaurant, the emphasis is firmly Grecian.

Word must have got around quickly: On a steamy Monday evening, the place looked full to bursting (although we subsequently learned that the upstairs dining room was closed). Even more encouragingly, the clientele comprised students (who can always sniff out a bargain) and Mediterranean family groups (surely a good sign of the food’s authenticity?).

Nobody was here for the interiors, though – a bland mish-mash of dull paintings and furniture. Or the view – the litter-strewn pavement outside New Look and the occasional passing hoodie. So let’s just say this might not be ideal first date territory.

Fortunately, the owner/manager (who apparently also owns the Dionysus restaurant in Arnold) is everything you’d want from any neighbourhood taverna – an avuncular Greek geezer, straight out of central casting, who roams the room checking the welfare of his customers. If only all restaurants boasted someone with this kind of passion and enthusiasm for their business… Top bloke.

Despite the prosaic surroundings, Yamas was growing on us, especially as the ice-cold Greek lagers (Mythos and Yeo – both £2.80 a bottle) worked their magic. Imagining ourselves back to the days of Greek island-hopping and the tavernas of Ios, Rhodes or Naxos, even the lengthy wait to be served seemed authentic. That’s how chilled we were.

We were delighted that Greek dishes dominate the Yamas menu. After all, there are more than enough Italian and Mediterranean tapas places elsewhere in NG1. Dishes from a solid selection span traditional taverna favourites such as moussaka (£4.85), dolmades (£3.95) and chicken souvlaki (£4.45) to less well-known options such as Stifado (beef casserole – £4.95) or Kefethes (Greek-style meatballs – £3.45). Several pasta dishes and non-Greek dishes are also available.

Although the menu also claims that “cold dishes will be served first,” all our chosen dishes (hot and cold) arrived together. By the time this bacchanalian feast finally arrived, we were almost ready to eat the cutlery. Again, the charm of our ebullient host smoothed the way.

We stuck mainly with Greek classics. In no particular order, our main picks were Greek Salad (£3.95), Kalamari (£4.50), aubergines and zucchini (£4.50), Yemista (£2.95), and Spanakopitta (£2.95).

Typical Greek flavours of oregano, mint and garlic set the tone. The slices of aubergine and courgette were perfectly fried in olive oil and felt effortlessly healthy. The Yemista comprised of two peppers stuffed with rice and a sprinkling of pine kernels and raisins which was nicely cooked but lacked any robust taste. The Greek salad was fresh if a little too fussy, (and certainly not one for the purists, as it contained rocket leaves). And the Spanakopitta (a familiar staple of those endless Greek ferry crossings) was an enjoyable blast from the past with feta cheese and spinach wrapped in crispy filo pastry.

But best of the lot was the kalamari, deep-fried rings of squid in a light golden batter – they only need a squirt of fresh lemon juice to create a sensational summer taste.

Alongside these dishes, the side-orders of Tirokafteri dip (£2.95) and Greek round bread (£1.95) were also hits. This spicy cheese dip, a wicked blend of cream and feta cheeses infused by a hit of chilli, worked well with the rustic bread. So we were glad we didn’t opt for the obvious choices of houmous, taramosalata, or tzatziki dips (perhaps next time…)

For some extra carbs, we went for the very non-Greek Patatas Bravas (£3.65) which turned out to be new potatoes (rather than the usual fried version) in a familiarly fiery tomato salsa.

Finally, we shared a dessert of Baklava (£2.95), layers of filo pastry with chopped almonds and delicious drizzle of honey syrup. Accompanied by a strong Greek coffee (£1.50) and a Glykaniso (£1.75), green tea with an aniseed twist, this was a satisfyingly sweet way to conclude matters.

The bill (for two with moderate booze) was one of the nicest surprises of all – just below the suitably mythic £50 mark. So, while Yamas isn’t the most glamorous place in town, it offers decent Greek cuisine at superb value which has got to be good news. By the way, “yamas” is Greek for “Our health” or “cheers”. And that says it all…

Yamas, 5 Thurland Street, Nottingham. Tel: 0115 950 1000. Open daily 12-11pm.

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LORD NELSON

***** (Five stars)

Fancy a night out in Burton Joyce? Not a phrase you hear everyday, is it? After all, this pleasant residential area to the east of Nottingham is neither a suburb or a village – it’s a something in-between. And, if you think it sounds dull, that’s your prerogative.

But the good news is that NG14 now has a gastro pub to rival the best in Notts. Tucked off the main road near the church and railway line, the former Famous Lord Nelson pub was, until last summer, an inconspicuous place – with Mild on tap and meals served in a quaint olde worlde lounge bar.

Now the newly rebranded Lord Nelson is a smart country boozer with a nod to urban sophistication. And while we could have lived without Sky Sports blasting from the large screens, overall first impressions were that the new owners have done a professional job. So we weren’t surprised to learn that the Moleface Pub Company, the team behind the refurbished Larwood & Voce at Trent Bridge, is behind this new venture. Last summer, we admired the hearty fare (particularly steaks) at L&V – although we were less convinced by its interiors and disappointed by the lack of cricket memorabilia, given its heritage.

So have they gone one better here? By installing the Notts Young Chef of the Year Nichola Thompson (recognised for her talent at June’s Nottingham Restaurant Awards) as their head chef, it’s certainly a promising start.

As we entered the moderately crowded pub on a Saturday night, the ‘maturity’ of the punters was noticeable. The silver surfers were certainly out in force – perhaps they’re the only ones who can afford (or think they can afford) a decent meal out these days?

After initially being given ‘the duff table’ (you know the one – perched awkwardly near the fire exit with no room for anyone to get past), a kindly waitress took pity and moved us to a far more comfortable booth.

As we sipped on nicely chilled ‘Head over Heels’ rosé (£5.35 for a large glass), we considered the no-nonsense menu of Modern British-dominated pub grub with an old-school slant. From starters of local pigeon on toast (£6) and seriously retro ‘half pint o’ prawn cocktail’ (£5.50) to mains of grilled sirloin and chips in dripping and horseradish (£19.95) and pork belly with baked red onion and apple sauce (£12.50), it was great to see that many main ingredients, especially the meat, were sourced locally with their provenance listed on the menu.

We kicked off with the seafood ‘thermidor’ (£7.50) and mozzarella and tomato salad (£5.50) – both of which were excellent. My friend loved the garlicky creaminess of her thermidor-inspired dish of king scallops and prawns with spinach. Meanwhile, my mozzarella was the real deal: the proper Buffalo variety so loved by Jamie Olivier types, with fresh yellow vine tomatoes – the taste and texture of the melt in the mouth cheese and firm, juicy tomatoes was a killer combination (it also felt virtuously healthy, although there’s probably as much fat here as a Big Mac).

Next up, our mains of vegetable tart (£11.50) and grilled whole plaice (£12.95) kept up the high standards. In particular, the expertly grilled plaice was a real highlight – a generously large portion of delicate white fish given a deft, salty twist by strips of smoked bacon, plus a tangy bite of baby capers and cherry tomatoes. The roasted vegetable tart didn’t let the kitchen down, either. Again, it was a decent size and featured some obviously homemade pastry and strong flavours of goats’ cheese and basil leading the way. Our shared side order of delicious new potatoes (£2.50) added a few essential carbs.

We’d already enjoyed a sublime meal. And the good times continued with desserts as we succumbed to the siren’s call of a selection of ‘Lord Nelson favourite puds in miniature’ (£10 for two people) – like a box of Celebrations, but better. Only a fool would resist the chance to try as many desserts as it’s possible to fit on a plate: a comforting sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce, a decadent white chocolate cheesecake and fresh strawberries and a subtle-flavoured summer berry and elderflower jelly. Best of all was the life-affirmingly rich warm strawberry and almond tart.

Perhaps it was the port talking (Barros ruby at £2 for 50ml), but we reckoned that every man (and woman) has done their duty here at The Lord Nelson – especially Nichola Thompson, who, at only 21, is a talent to watch.

If you’re a credit crunch worrier, it might be an idea to take advantage of the special Monday to Wednesday deal: two courses for £13.95 and three courses for £16.95.  

The new owners have said they want the Lord Nelson to be part of Burton Joyce – ‘a local pub for local people’ which all sounds a bit Royston Vasey. But don’t be put off – for the rest of us, the food at the Lord Nelson is still definitely worth the trip along the A612. David Sandhu

The Lord Nelson, Chestnut Grove, Burton Joyce NG14 5DN. Tel: 01159 311 800. Dinner served from 5.30pm to 9pm (Mon-Thurs) and 5.30pm to 10pm (Fri & Sat).

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WAGGON & HORSES

**** (four stars)

Waggon & Horses, East Midlands

Just down the road from well-heeled Southwell, the Waggon & Horses has been building a reputation for quality food for several years now. And, with a brand new menu and the recent accolade of ‘2006 Dining Pub of the Year Nottinghamshire’ in the Good Pub Guide, it didn’t take much to persuade us to pay our first visit.

This relatively small pub lies on the main road through the village of Halam. On a humid autumn evening, we would have liked to have gone alfresco but the few outside tables were right by the road. It’s a traditional boozer – the building dates back 1762 – all timbered beams, green wellies and red-cheeked country folk. You certainly know you’re in Middle England here.

With an impressive turnout for a Wednesday, it was quite hot and cramped inside (this would probably feel cosy on a winter’s day, though). You also have to fight your way to the bar before being seated. We were led to a small, rather uncomfortable, ill-fitting wooden table in the corner – and the oppressive exposed brick and red walls weren’t doing much for our mood either (although the Victorian cricket portraits are a nice touch).

To live up to its billing as one of the best gastro pubs in Notts, the food would have to be something special. We soon found out that it was…

Although I was tempted by a pint of ale (after all, the hand pulled beers here are from the Daniel Thwaites brewery of Lancashire, the UK’s largest family run brewery). However, the excellent menu looked like it would better suit a glass of white – so we glugged large glasses (250ml) of Australian Deakin Estate Sauvignon Blanc (£4.75 each). That menu was a mouth-watering prospect of simple, well-considered dishes: starters including pan-fried pigeon breast, Quince and onion marmalade and dressed rocket (£6), and smoked goose breast with pear and walnut salad (£7); mains of glazed duck breast, roast beetroot and onions (£13), and buttered roast fennel and mushroom risotto (£11).

Our starter choices were the slow-cooked vegetable soup (£4.50) and stilton and leek potato cake (£6). It was a promising start – the soup was a steamy autumnal stew of root vegetables, predominantly parsnip, topped with a creamy brie crouton. Meanwhile, the potato cake was a melting mixture of rich stilton and juicy leeks given an exquisite twist of textures by the accompanying chunky tomato salsa which added crunch and coolness to the yielding softness of the warm, fluffy potato.

You’d be a fool to miss the blackboard specials here. In fact, we chose both of our mains from the list – a seabass fillet (£13) and baked salmon (£12) – and weren’t disappointed. My friend’s salmon was a generous portion of fish on a bed of asparagus, tomato and spinach – this expertly cooked fish was succulent and well balanced by the vegetables. I was equally delighted by my seabass that came pan-fried with an inspired seasonal sauce of pumpkin and spring onion. The soft white flesh was enlivened by the sweetness of the pumpkin and given extra punch by the sharper-tasting dressing of dill and mustard.

All the portions were a good size. Not to mention the huge bamboo container of steamed vegetables (courgettes, carrots, potatoes and green beans) plus a bowl of truly irresistible thinly sliced crispy fried potatoes.

Our desserts were fabulous, too. The gin & tonic sorbet sounded intriguing but I was pleased not to miss out on the dark chocolate and Griottine cherry crème brulee (£5), a sinfully smooth concoction of pure pleasure – the bitter-sweet flavours of the whole cherries blending perfectly with the strong chocolate. A similar combination of tastes – wild cherry and dark chocolate ice cream (£5 for two scoops) –– also worked wonders for my dining companion. 

We’re not surprised that the Waggon & Horses has won so many plaudits. Head chef and co-owner Roy Wood (no, not that one!) keeps the cooking admirably simple and the non-smoking policy throughout the bar and restaurant is another smart move. This is pub grub taken to a higher level. David Sandhu

The Waggon and Horses, The Turnpike, Halam, Nottinghamshire. Tel: 01636 813109. Open for meals Mon-Sat 12-2.30pm and 6-9.30pm and Sun 12-3pm.

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Best Newcomer: Tarn Thai

Tarn Thai, East Midlands

Several Thai restaurants have opened their doors in recent years, but nothing quite as hot as Tarn Thai which sizzled into the city’s culinary consciousness earlier this summer. Located on George Street in the heart of the Hockley action, this modern, purpose-built building has had a fair amount of cash lavished on it – creating a well-lit and contemporary space, complete with trendy water features. The traditional Thai hospitality extends to a warm welcome, attentive service and friendly smiles all round. But it’s the authentic food that really sets this place apart – from the usual standard dishes to a few interesting innovations, there are some excellent choices. We particularly enjoyed the grilled selection of dishes that really taste like they’ve come straight off a charcoal barbecue. The chef certainly seems to know exactly what he’s doing and prices overall are fairly reasonable given both the setting and quality. With Nottingham’s Thai restaurant scene in better shape than ever before, Tarn Thai is right up there with the very best the city has to offer in ethnic cuisine. Let’s hope it can maintain such high standards for many years to come… DS

Tarn Thai, 9 George Street, Nottingham, daily noon to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm. Tel: 0115 959 9454

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HART’S

***** (FIVE STARS)

Hart’s definitely in the right place

There’s usually someone worth spotting in Hart’s.From an unlikely celeb pairing such as Biggins (Christopher) and Sweeney (Claire) eating à deux during the panto season to the entire England cricket team demolishing plates of pasta before demolishing the Aussies in that crucial Ashes back in the summer of 2005… it’s that kind of place.

So we weren’t entirely surprised to be seated at the next table to Nottingham Forest’s new star signing – Andrew Cole. This veteran striker knows where the goal is – and, it seems, where to get a decent meal now he’s back in his hometown. Because, if you didn’t know, Hart’s is the sister restaurant to the prestigious Hambleton Hall and has been in the Premiership of Nottingham restaurants since opening in 1997. The discreet and efficient service, and upmarket cuisine has created a loyal clientele of lunching solicitors and affluent diners. With the addition of an adjacent boutique 32-room hotel around five years ago, this is a formidable operation.

Now that Hart’s has a new chef, a revised menu and has recently triumphed at the 2008 Nottingham Restaurant Awards (stealing the Nottingham Restaurant of the Year crown back from World Service, who have previously dominated the event), Metro decided the time was right to return (it’s a tough gig, but someone’s got to do it…).

Hart’s is housed, rather oddly, in the old A&E department of the former Nottingham General Hospital. Surrounded by gorgeous Georgian and Victorian town houses (most of which are now legal and accountancy firm offices), this listed building stands near the ramparts of Nottingham’s original medieval castle site.

Inside, the medium-sized dining room tries hard to be cutting-edge contemporary but the rather harsh lighting ends up creating a slightly clinical vibe – not unlike entering a BMW showroom.

But, of course, it’s all about the food here. The modern British menu aims to be thoroughly seasonal with dishes like starters of Hart’s seasonal salad (£7.50) and crab salad with melon, pink grapefruit and mango (£9.50), and mains like corn fed chicken with sweetcorn and girolles (£16) and roasted flat iron steak, radish and potato purée and red wine sauce (£18.50).

Gareth Ward, the new head chef at Hart’s, added fresh impetus into a menu which previously seemed set in stone. The separate vegetarian menu is no more, however – so my veggie friend had fewer options than on previous visits. She opted for the watercress soup (£5.50) while I couldn’t resist the Isle of Skye scallops (£10.50).

Accompanied by some exquisite cheese and onion bread, my friend’s soup was sensational – the stunningly fresh watercress taste had her in raptures. And it wasn’t just the Champagne talking (£8.50 per glass). Meanwhile, I was equally enthusiastic about my quartet of lightly fried scallops which were lying on crunchy morsels of cauliflower and accompanied by tiny melt-in-the-mouth tempura-style puffs and sorrel leaves with a delicately flavoured oyster dressing.

Our main course choices had soon arrived, too. My friend’s risotto (£14) and my fritto misto (£16.50) kept up the high standards set so far. The smallish portion of risotto was expertly cooked with a bounty of peas, pea shoots and chanterelle mushrooms – the naturally tender texture of which were alive with wild fungi flavours – topped by a poached egg. And my platter of deeply fried mixed seafood was like Fantasy League fish and chips (with a summer salad instead of the chips): a cornucopia of crispy seabass, squid, cod, prawns and whitebait that was a genuine treat.

By now, we were totally convinced that the food here was the real deal. Fortunately, the desserts didn’t disappoint, either. From a selection that also featured summery favourites like English strawberry terrine with Pimms and basil (£8.50) and gooseberry Eton Mess (£7), we plumped for the black cherry soufflé (£7.50) and petit fours (£4). My superbly fluffy soufflé delivered all the deeply seductive sweet and sour cherry flavours alongside yoghurt sorbet and some fresh cherries with a little crumble. Unfortunately, we couldn’t finish off all the homemade petit fours – so we had these elegantly rich chocolates boxed up to take home (credit crunch and all) for later.

Our final bill was a few coins short of the symbolic £100 mark (with very moderate booze and coffees), including the rather steep 12% service charge. But, even on a Monday night in July, Hart’s seemed impressively busy: it’s little wonder that tables here can sometimes be at a premium (book ahead for weekends).

This is certainly among the finest kitchens and smartest service in NG1, easily justifying its place in the affections of Nottingham’s cognoscenti. Sometimes, though, it feels a little too slick and corporate. For instance, our three-course meal began at 8.45pm and we were the last diners to leave, along with Andrew Cole and family, by 10.10pm. Nevertheless, there’s no doubt that Hart’s head chef Gareth Ward is in scintillating form, creating carefully crafted, sophisticated cuisine using top quality ingredients  – so let’s hope it inspires ‘King Cole’ to similar brilliance this season, too. David Sandhu

Harts, Standard Court, Park Row, Nottingham. Tel: 0115 911 0666. www.hartsnottingham.co.uk. Open noon-2pm daily, 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat, and 7-9pm Sun.

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The business we're in

Six reasons to love the restaurant business… (Because it’s really like no other)

  1. The people.

Some would say that you’d have to be mad to be either a chef or a restaurateur – and there’s a delicious truth in that. Because this is a business where creativity, entrepreneurship and optimism all converge… Every successful owner needs a mix of energy, personality, leadership, innovation and dedication (not to mention a good business brain) to succeed. And all that means there are interesting characters behind every restaurant door.

  • The shock of the new.

Remember when the concept of ‘street food’ seemed almost revolutionary? Whether it’s the cronut, the Impossible burger or poke, nothing really should surprise us about the restaurant industry because it’s in a constant state of flux. With new cuisines, new interior aesthetics and new ways of operating, these ever-spinning plates of fresh trends, fads and styles mean that restaurants are always changing, always evolving. Which is a very good thing indeed…

  • The terrible odds.

There’s nothing better than defying the odds. And running a successful restaurant is certainly bucking the odds. We won’t go into the statistics here – but the chances are that most restaurants won’t survive for more than three years of trading. Who would go into a business sector with the volatility of such numbers against them? Only those that really love what they do…

  • The ancient art.

Even the Ancient Greeks and Romans had their thermopolias (small L-shaped restaurant-bars that offered food and drinks to customers). Their popularity was linked to the lack of kitchens in many dwellings and the ease with which people could purchase prepared foods. Furthermore, eating out was considered an important aspect of socialising. It still is. And always will be. The fact is that it’s a business that will always be needed – however much Deliveroo and Uber Eats etc might disrupt the market, the fundamentals remain – we like to eat with others in places other than our homes. After all, a first date will always need a venue. We all yearn to be a welcomed guest.

  • The personal nostalgia.

We can all remember a time when a restaurant provided the perfect backdrop to a special occasion – so these places and spaces become ingrained in our individual psyches. From first dates to affairs to family landmarks to business deals, whatever the circumstances, there’s usually a restaurant, bar, hotel or café where the action takes place.   Like backdrop sets where scenes of our lives play out, they remind us of who we once were. Because we can picture being around that table, how we felt then and who we were with (even when those people are no longer around).

  • The excitement.

There’s good reason why TV shows like The Restaurant and Million Pound Menu are such compelling viewing. And it’s because a new restaurant is like show-biz for the high street. Everyone wants to live somewhere with great restaurants to choose from. And owners love the buzz of opening night – there’s simply nothing like it. So far in February 2020 alone, London has seen Indian Ocean cuisine make its mark with Hoppers in Kings Cross; nearby at The Courtyard at Goods Way, there’s a new food hall which includes vegan game-changers Temple of Seitan. Elsewhere in town, New York-based baking superstar Dominique Ansel (the man behind the cronut) has opened a new concept restaurant in Covent Garden – while Nigerian tapas at Chuku’s is about to become the Next Big Thing (and don’t we all love those) for those who venture up to Tottenham High Road. And that’s just London last month.

What makes the restaurant business so special for you? Please share with us here at Table Talk…